Monday, June 30, 2014

That's Tough

  This morning, I was sitting in my office before work, using our wifi to chat with a friend back home, and he asked me what has been the hardest thing for me, having crossed the midway point of my service. I'm going to state right here: I miss my friends and family. That's #1 on my list. I have some great friends here, and my host families, both during training and here in Khorixas, have truly made me feel welcomed. And I have more internet access than many PCVs. But that doesn't change the fact that a lot has happened, and there have been times when I've felt truly isolated. With that said, I want to go deeper into the Namibia-specific things that have probably been the most difficult for me. Some  of these are specific to me, and lists like these will vary greatly among volunteers, based on where they are serving and when they served. Others on this list will probably appear on the list of any PCV being honest. I'm keeping the list to 7 things, and the numbers are just for me to count, not really a ranking. And sorry if this sounds negative. I love my life here, but this is a question I get asked a lot, and I feel it;s one worth answering.


  1. Food- I've referenced my diet here before. It's mainly beans and rice, eggs, apples, and peanut butter sandwiches, with the occasional braai or splurge meal. In my town, despite having a fridge, between the prices and limited selection, I really don't have access to all my favorite fruits and veggies, basically limited to apples, oranges, apples, potatoes (I realize they're not fruits or veggies), cabbage (I may never eat another cabbage again in my life), onions, green peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin, butternut squash, and, once in a blue moon, avocados. On truly special occasions (maybe once every 2-3 months), I find myself at the Spar in Otjiwarrango, where I have more veggie choices, like mushroom (again, I know it's not really a veggie, but deal with it). Far less meat in my diet here, and you can't get boneless chicken in my town. Meat is also often a lot fattier. It also tends to taste better, in my opinion, because of the lack of hormones. Food cooked by Namibians also tends to include a lot more salt and mayonnaise for my taste, and lacks the kick I like. On the other hand, I love Ms. Ball's chutneys (and no, not because of the name)
  2. My water situation- Okay, so I'm used to it now, but still, not having hot water, especially during the winter, sucks. Now, during the summer it's manageable, but cold showers during the winter, even if they're not as cold as they can get back home, is rough when you don't have heating. However, that's not my biggest issue. The real problem is how often my water gets cut off. My town is semi-desert. There is no body of water to fetch water from. So, when it gets cut out, I am screwed, unless I want to go buy water, which, on my budget, is not a great option. And when my water gets cut out (generally because of shortages or issues with the treatment system), it's usually out for at least 2-3 days, sometimes more. Basically, when it happens, my life sucks.
  3. Timeliness- Namibian culture has a different view on the value of being on time than America, and it's been a struggle. It's considered rude to end a conversation before it's over, and people have other priorities, like their kids. So people are often late. Or they just won't show up. And they won't always tell you. For someone who would rather be 2 hours early than half a second late, that's taken some getting used to. I'm starting to get used to it, but it is frustrating, still. Adding to that is that when people say they're coming "now", that can mean they'll leave their place in some time in the next hour. Maybe sooner. Maybe later. But they'll come at some point. Maybe. Unless they get held up. "Now now" generally means you won't be waiting too long, but even that isn't always true. I could get into professionalism in general, and the fact that there's just a very different culture I'm having to adjust to, but the timeliness has been the hardest aspect of that.
  4. Gender Roles- Legally, Namibia's made a big push for gender equality. We even recently had a day of prayer against Gender Based Violence. Still gender equality is a very recent concept. Every day, there are articles in The Namibian about women getting beaten, or even killed, for refusing sex or rejecting a guy or having a new boyfriend or refusing to cook dinner, or something like that. For the most part, I try to have an open mind when it comes to culture differences, but when it comes to gender equality, there is a right and a wrong, and the traditions in Namibia are wrong, plain and simple. Any culture where you aren't treated like a monster for hitting your wife, girlfriend, ex, or anyone else, committing rape, or any other kind of gender based violence is flat out not acceptable. It needs to change, and I hope my work here is making at least a small difference, but I've seen things that truly make my skin crawl. One night, walking home after a night out, I see a young woman being held up by 3 of her friends. Me and the friend with whom I was walking went to see what was going on. Turns out, she'd been beaten by her boyfriend. The left side of her face looked like and apple that's been left out in the sun for a few days and then dropped a few time. It was brutal. She could not walk, and her friends were struggling to support her (fortunately, my friend and I were there to help get her to the hospital). Another time, I was a judge for a debate contest. I won't get into the fact that it had no business being called a "debate" anything. The topic was gender based violence. Some of the speakers actually made it seem that they felt it was gender based violence when a woman spends all her husband's money, leaving him nothing to drink. They also seemed to imply it was excusable for him to get angry and hit her. There were also points about the gender equality thing being forced on men and making them feel threatened. It was hard to deal with, as someone who grew up in America, with parents who were pretty strong supporters of feminism, in a culture that is at least striving for gender equality. This has probably been the adjustment I've been most stubborn about not accommodating. It's also probably been the hardest to learn to live with.
  5. Lack of luxuries- I've already mentioned the water thing and the foods. But, as someone who has grown up in, I think it's fair to say, a pretty comfortable environment, a lack of certain luxuries has taken some getting used to (I will say that this has been the easiest thing on this list to deal with, though probably the hardest at first). During the summers here, it's f***ing hot (sorry mom and dad, but I needed the emphasis). Not having A/C sucks. I make due with my fan, but that's not everywhere. Trying to stand over my stove cooking is brutal. Cold showers after work help. So does keeping a few cool beers around and bottles of water in the fridge. Still, it can suck. And the winter's lack of heating might be worse, since when I get out of the ice cold shower into the cold room, I feel like a "Jay-sicle." I have more access to internet than most, but still, it's nothing compared to the US. As most of you know, I'm trying to learn guitar, and most of the advice I've been given has been "go on Youtube and..." A 5 minute Youtube video can take an hour+ to load, and that's if the internet doesn't disconnect (if it does, I have to start over). Electricity goes out constantly, especially when it rains or gets hot (or when the ministry forgets to pay the electricity). With the heat, during the summer, without my fan, it is impossible to sleep with all the heat. I also can't cook, since my stove is electric. Doing laundry by hand is relaxing. Put on some good tunes and just do it. But it can really be annoying and exhausting after a while. Every once and a while, it would be nice to have a laundry machine. Not having a microwave or TV is annoying also, especially during the World Cup or NFL season.
  6. Time zones- One of the challenges that has left me feeling isolated is the time zones, which make it tough to communicate. It's not easy to find time when both I and the friends and family back home I want to talk to are both available to Skype. Trying to find time to talk to my mom to help talking about her packing for her visit to me, between my work schedule and hers, has been very difficult. To make matters worse, Namibia changes it's clocks on different days than the US, and when we change our clocks back, the US goes forward. It's also been brutal during with the World Cup, with the US's first 2 matches both starting at 11pm. Super Bowl started after midnight (granted, it wasn't worth watching, I hear). I was up until like 9am when Tulane played in the New Orleans Bowl.
  7. Isolation- I mentioned in the intro that hands down, the hardest part has been leaving behind my family and friends. I really don't have my support system. As those of you who have been reading from the beginning know, my grandpa passed away early in my service. It's been a year now, and the truth is it hasn't fully sunk in as a reality. I wouldn't have seen him, since he doesn't know how to use a computer and can't travel and phone calls are expensive. A lot has happened back home with friends and family, and I feel completely disconnected, almost as if I'm existing outside of their reality, and it's been pretty tough at times. People here have been supportive, and I have great friends here. But it's still really hard to feel so separate from those I care about.
I could keep going all day. There have been plenty of things that have been difficult. But those are the biggest for me. So, for those of you who keep asking me about what have been the challenges, there's your answer. My family is coming soon. Really looking forward to seeing them, and getting to watch a match or 2 of this World Cup with them. If I have time, I would love to write a post about what the World Cup experience has been like here, but we'll see, since I've been quite busy getting ready for a month of travel with my family. Until next time, enjoy.

Sunday, June 1, 2014

World Cup Fever

  Those of you who know me know I am absolutely obsessed with soccer. Those of you who don't live under a rock know the World Cup starts in less than 2 weeks. In light of that, and some conversations I've been having with friends here, I decided to put together a short post on some thoughts.



  First of all, I am a massive USA fan. And I plan on killing my sleep cycle to watch every second of every USA game. I also realize we are in a ridiculously good group and our odds are long to make it to the knock-out round. That said, I think we have better odds than most people think, with Germany suffering a few injuries during the lead-up (not saying I am happy to see guys hurt, just offering analysis in relation to impact on the USA). I think Ghana is beatable (more on that in a bit, since Ghana is actually the reason I decided to write this post in the first place). I even think Portugal is a team we can shock, though it'll take a lot of luck, since Ronaldo can absolutely shred our defense.

 Of course, saying I think our odds are better than most people think isn't saying much, what with all the pessimism about this team And I don't blame people. However, we have a very solid and deep midfield. Not a top tier midfield, but probably mid-high second tier. We have the ability to create an attack, and guys like Diskerud and Zusi offer an element of creativity to go with Dempsey and Bradley. On the other hand, the midfield is also the biggest story of this USA team, with Landon Donovan being left off the roster. And let me say right now, I think that was a mistake. Donovan may no longer be a go-to starter. However, he's a guy with a proven record of success, experienced at this level, and someone who, if things go as people expect, has the maturity to keep things together, which would be good for the young guys. After all, in a group of death, disaster is always possible, and young players don't always handle it as well. I also think having someone with Donovan's scoring ability and leadership on the bench would offer a lot in a close game. I get what JK is doing, going young, kind of like England a few years ago with Theo Walcott. And Julian Green very well may be the future, and may have more speed, or even skill, than Donovan does today. I didn't see camp, so I can't speak to that aspect. I can speak to Donovan's experience, which could be a valued asset, and we saw with guys like Freddy Adu what happens when too much is expected too young from a guy and success doesn't come right away. Not saying Green is the next Adu, as Freddy is really an extreme example of too much expectation and hype too young and guys buying into it. But I also don't care about Julian Green's career as much as I do about Team USA's success. And I think JK left Donovan off the roster largely a sign that he is looking to 2018 already, essentially throwing in the towel for this Cup. This isn't club level. You don't have a "rebuilding year" during the World Cup; you have the 4 years between Cups for that. You bring the roster that you think can succeed this year, with no thoughts beyond the Finals, when building your roster. Obviously, I am not Klinsmann, and I may be reading his intentions incorrectly. This is just what it looks like to me.


 Moving beyond that, the other day I was talking about the World Cup and African Soccer in general with a friend of mine, and we both noted a trend among the teams consistently ranked as Africa's top. Ivory Coast, Cameroon, Nigeria, and Ghana tend to be the most successful in the region. They also tend to have more established national leagues, put more money into their national squads, and their best players tend to go to Europe and play for top teams. That last point is what I want to highlight. A lot has been said about the United States and our struggles against Ghana in the past few tournaments. On paper, the USA seems like a better team, and top-to-bottom, that may be true. However, when our guys go to Europe, they generally play for second-tier teams (even Dempsey never really broke through will a lower-end-of-the-top tier Tottenham team). Let's compare American and Ghanaian players currently playing in Europe, and who they play for:

USA
-Tim Howard, Everton, EPL (5)
-Brad Guzan, Aston Villa, EPL (15)
-John Brooks, Hertha BSC, Bundesliga (17, relegated)
-Geoff Cameron, Stoke City, (9)
-Tim Chandler, Nurnberg, Bundesliga (11)
-Fabian Johnson, Monchengladbach, Bundesliga (6)
-Mix Diskerud, Rosenborg, Nowegian Tippeligaen (2)
- Alejandro Bedoya, Nantes, Ligue 1 (13)
-Jermaine Jones, Besiktas, Turkish Super Lig (3rd)
-Julian Green, Bayern Munich, Bundesliga (1)
-Aron Johannson, AZ Alkmaar, Dutch Eredivisie (8)
-Jozy Altidore, Sunderland, EPL (14)

Only 9 guys in the "Big 4" leagues (England, Spain, Germany, Italy), only 2 guys were on top-5 clubs, and Green wasn't a starter on Munich, playing only 2 official minutes in the first team. Of course, some of the other guys had success, and Besiktas is a respectable team, but it's not the same as playing with the global powers. Now, let's look at the guys Ghana's putting on the field:

Ghana
-Adam Kwarasey, Stromsgodset, Trippligaen (1)
-Samuel Inkoom, Platanias, Superleague Greece (14)
-John Boye, Rennes, Ligue 1 (12)
-Daniel Opare, Standard Liege, Belgian Pro Ligue (4)
-Jonathan Mensah, Evian, Ligue 1 (16)
-Jerry Akaminka, Eskisehispor, Turkish Super Lig (8)
-Jeff Schlupp, Leicester City, Leauge Championship (1, promoted)
-Sulley Muntari, A.C. Milan, Seire A (8)
-Kwadwo Asamoah, Juventus, Serie A (1)
-Michael Essien, A.C. Milan, Serie A (8)
-Emmanuel Agyemang-Badu, Udinese, Serie A (13)
-Andre Ayew, Marseille, Ligue 1 (2)
-Christian Atsu, Vitesse, Eredivisie (6)
-Wakaso Mubarak, Rubin Kazan, Russian Premier League (9)
-Mohammed Rabiu, Kuban Krasnodar, Russian Premier League (8)
-Albert Adomah, Middlesbrough, League Championship (12)
-Kevin-Prince Boateng, Schalke, Bundasliga (3)
-Afriyie Acquah, Parma, Seria A (6)
-Majeed Waris, Valenciennes, Ligue 1 (19, relegated)
-Jordan Ayew, Sochaux, Ligue 1 (18, relegated)
-David Accam, Helsingborg, Swedish Allsvenskan (5)


Ghana star and one of
Africa's all-time best players,
Michael Essien
Essien in action for Chelsea
Now, Ghana has more players in Europe, but most of them are playing for second or third tier teams. The guy I really want to emphasize is Michael Essien. If you don't know who he is, you don't get to tell anyone you know anything about soccer (sorry hipsters posing as fans to seem cool). Michael Essien played many years for Chelsea, even being the team's player of the year in 2007, and winning 2 EPL titles, 1 Champions League title, and 4 FA Cups with Chelsea, with 25 goals in over 250 matches for the club. The guy has played for the best, against the best, and been coached by the best (namely, Jose Mourinho). That's a huge difference, because he's played under stressful situations and really knows how to succeed at the very top, something guys on Team USA just don't have (especially with Donovan gone) with the possible exception of Clint Dempsey. Kwando Asamoah played 32 league matches for Italian champs Juve this year, on top of 27 last year. Kevin-Prince Boateng played 28 matches for a solid Schalke team, and previously played for A.C. Milan. When was the last time the US had a player who'd played under a Jose, or a Pep, or a Wenger, or a SAF? When was the last time they had a guy with Champions League experience? These things are invaluable, and speak volumes as to why we tend to struggle against Ghana.


Cote D'Ivoir and Chelsea great
Didier Drogba
And lest you think only Ghana is like this, look at the guys on the Ivory Coast, like Drogba and Kalou and the Toures. Or Cameroon, with Alex Song and Samuel Eto'o. Nigeria has John Obi Mikel, Victor Moses, and Peter Oemwingie. Algeria, Africa's fifth entrant, may not quite fit the mold, though they too have guys on top European rosters. Soccer in the US has come a long way. We're just not there yet. And the different levels of experience of our top players gives one possible explanation of why Ghana's been such a problem for us. After all, while we may have an overall better and deeper roster, nobody on our team can hold a candle to Essien at his best.

  I've been reading about how they intend to use goal line technology to be certain of goals. I know there are purists out there who don't like the idea. Those purists are wrong. Think back to past games, like the USA/Germany game all those years ago, and how much of a difference it would've made. The fact is, if the technology exists, and it doesn't impact the movement of the ball or pose safety risks to players, which it sounds like it doesn't, then there is not one decent reason not to use the technology. I understand not wanting to go to replay and challenges, since time never stops and it would kill the flow, but I say goal line, and even sideline, technology are great.

  As for Qatar, I won't go too much into that, other than to say they have no business hosting it. Human rights violations, issues with alcohol, expecting fans who aren't Muslim to abide by Sharia law are all things that should disqualify a country from the get-go. On top of that, you have the fact that a country ranked outside the top 100, who has never come close to qualifying, should not be eligible to host so long as host countries automatically qualify, as it dilutes the quality of the product (and yes, I realize South Africa performed well, despite the fact that they likely would not have qualified, but at least they have qualified in the past). Never mind the question of "what if Israel qualifies"? I know that's not likely, but there is always the chance, and I doubt Qatar can guarantee the safety of every Israeli fan, player, and staff member, or that they would be treated with the same respect as any other country participating. And Israel is far more likely to qualify than Qatar would be. On the other hand, as much of a stain as this bribery scandal is, and you're an idiot if you think for a second there's a chance it isn't true, with FIFA's history, maybe this will be enough of a disgrace to shame Sepp Blatter out of his affiliation with the great game, because he's done so much to ruin it. And to Qatar, yeah, you're denying that the bribery took place. Because people never deny committing crimes they commit. Given all the reasons to doubt your  being worthy of hosting the World Cup, on top of FIFA's history of corruption, anyone who believes these denials is a fool (this isn't a court of law, there's no "innocent until proven guilty," just "if the boot fits"). The sooner they're stripped of their hosting of the event, the better.
As for the new jerseys, the ones that look like popsicles, I love them. Absolutely love them. Want to get one when I get back to the US. First of all, I love blue. Beyond that, I just think the thought of looking like a Rocket Pop is fun.

  The final thing is I want to offer congratulations to Nick Rimando for making the roster. So happy to see him finally get the honor, even if he never sees action. Such a class guy, and one of the best keepers DCU has ever seen. Congrats Nicky. I'll never forget 2004.

  Okay, so that is all. Just some rambling thoughts from a guy who loves soccer, and whose opinion counts little in the grand scheme. Enjoy the World Cup, and check back here soon, because I have another post that's almost ready to go and should be up later this week. Also, if you get a chance, the two music videos I've included in this post are from the album "One Love, One Rhythm", the official soundtrack to this World Cup. It's worth checking out. Music from a variety of artists from different countries and different styles. Now, enjoy some photos of USA players I like.

Captain Clint Dempsey



American Outlaws


Timmy

Yes, I know he missed the roster, but this was a great game for the USA and highlighted his value to this squad

Some used to think the only reason he was on the team was he was the former coach's son. Those people were wrong.

Terps star Zusi, who brings a bit to the midfield



Another Dempsey pic


Who says Americans don't like soccer?




When in doubt, just put it in the Mixer


Photo included only to show how much he looks like Mark Young


Beasley is the Energizer Bunny of Team USA. Just keeps going and adapting as he gets older.

Jones and Altidore. Hopefully Jozy's goal drought will end in Brazil