Tomorrow marks two years since I arrived in Namibia, my bag missing, jet lagged, nervous, excited, and camera in hand. I will never forget that day. Walking out of the airport, onto the Peace Corps combi, and driving to Okahandja for training. The sun was coming down (there had been a slight delay in our J-burg to Windhoek flight). The view was incredible. It would be the first of a long list of unforgettable moments from these two amazing years.
Okay, so, most of training was forgettable. Probably because I found everything but language classes so dull and slow paced that I, er, slept through it. Probably shouldn't be admitting it, but oh well. Most of what I remember is my host family. A couple memorable interactions. I had brought an American football, which the kids quickly fell in love with. I impressed them not only with my arm (keep in mind that it's a lot more impressive when you throw 30 yard if the person catching has never seen a a 70 yard pass before), but with my punting. I was accused of cheating because I had shoes on. So, I took them off and punted barefoot, even further. From that night on, I was "Superman" to the kids. My host mom was a very devout Born-Again Christian. I had let slip that I was Jewish, and she once asked what that meant, while, in another room, a televangelist shouted about praising Jesus. I did what I could to give a tactful answer. She as actually fairly accepting of it. At least she, unlike one of my trainers, didn't as me "what's the difference between Jews and other types of Christians." Namibian cultural food day will always stand out. Of course, that might have something to do with it being the day my clothes arrived in country. However, I think it was all the foods. From the weird (mopani worms, smiley, and stomach) to the delicious (fatcakes, donkey meat, and braai bread). And then there was swearing in, when, in front of the man who is now Namibia's head-of-state, I officially became a Peace Corps Volunteer.
And, let's not forget my first "how to put on a condom" demonstration. Alicia just couldn't stop laughing as she tried to blow them up like balloons. I learned that it's really hard to do a lot of things with hands completely covered in lube. This would be the first of many memorable condom demonstrations and safe sex education programs, including women asking me to help them test out the female condoms.
One moment I could never forget was my arrival in Khorixas. It was my site visit, and my expected counterpart (who, sadly, would pass away in a car crash the next night) dropped me at the home of the people who would be my family when I arrived for good. While on the phone with my parents back home, I was offered lunch. A plate of intestines and bread. "Welcome to Khorixas!" Actually, I quite enjoyed it. And then there was Tia. She as terrified of me. Kept running out of any room I entered. And then, we got stuck together, and we traveled back to Okahandja with my host mom (Tia's grandma), Esna. Esna had gone to buy some food, and had asked me to watch Tia. At first, she as terrified. And then I let her use my iPod and gave her a piece of gum. I instantly became her best friend.
My first few months at site were a blur. I remember Waylon, my new counterpart, and I starting our computer classes, which would become one of my main projects. I remember my boss taking me to Terrace Bay to go fishing. I remember moving in with Grace and I remember her dog and the puppies. I remember going to bars to watch soccer matches with colleagues and playing soccer on the weekends. Maybe not big stories, though they certainly use up a lot of the memory in my brain's hard drive.
I remember my first night in my own flat. Going immediately to the store to buy a burger and chips, a beer, and some toilet paper (I didn't have pots and pans), taking a shower, and eating dinner, for the first time in a place that was all mine. Then, I remember going grocery shopping to cook my first meal in my own place. It reminds me of that scene in "St. Elmo's Fire," when Mare Winningham is talking to Rob Lowe about getting up in the middle of the night and making herself a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. "...it was my kitchen, it was my refrigerator, it as my apartment...and it as the BEST peanut butter and jelly sandwich that I have had in my entire life." Okay, so I made red beans and rice, not PB&J. Still, I think you get the point.
New Years Eve, I was at Esna's home again. We had a braai. We watched the celebration in Windhoek. We had some drinks. We watched the town's firework (yes, you read that correctly). And then around 2am I returned to my flat. And found the gate locked. It would be the first of many times I would have to climb it and it did not go well. The barbed wire destroyed my jeans. Eventually, I would get the technique down to where I could do it in the pouring rain with no light, but that would happen over time.
I will never forget Sossusvlei or my parents' visit. I've discussed both of those previously, so I won't go into the details here.
Grace's going away party and last night (two separate events) are etched firmly in my memory. She as such a big part of my first year, how could they not be? And soon after, Taylor would arrive, first for a site visit, when I would make a braai happen in the pouring rain, and then for good, when too many memorable things would happen to begin listing them.
I will never forget the feeling of victory when the gym at the hospital finally got built and the club began. Or when I finally had a computer class where over half the learners passed. Or my learner getting a job because of my class (more on that in the future).
I will never forget my first Damara wedding. Okay, that's a lie. I remember the ceremony, alright, but the party, not so much.
I will never forget, belatedly, celebrating my birthday in Khorixas. My parents were visiting and my Khorixas family took us to the farm. We brought a cake. I'm not even a fan of cake, but it was still a great time.
I will never forget my trip to Epupa falls, which I can't really talk about for a couple more months, for personal reasons. Some of you know what I'm talking about.
I will always remember my hikes. Solitary, peaceful, often with a bottle of whiskey, usually with a copy of Kerouac with me.
The election was certainly an experience.
I will sadly never forget the bureaucracy nightmare. Ugh.
But the list of what I will never forget goes beyond events. My many friends (more on that in the coming days). My new family. The smell of the braai stands. That orange glow Khorixas gets just before sunset. Fatcakes. The site of a giraffe running (just ridiculous). The awesomeness of a pack of elephants. The penguins in Cape Town. Living out my life-long dream (or at least the part of my life since I first saw "Jaws") of swimming with great white sharks. Gemsbok steaks. The beer. The wine. The drive to Otjiwarango. The dirt road to Swakop. Those guys trying to sell me nuts, and me not feeling an ounce of sympathy at them going to waste when they would write my name on them before asking if I had any interest in buying them, as if I'm going to feel guilty about their waste. Why did the ostrich cross the road? List goes on and on.
There is plenty more I will never forget. However, for the sake of others involved, I will leave those stories for a more private forum. We're almost done with my reflections. Just like 3 more. Hope you've enjoyed them. They've been a meaningful experience for me, a great way to look back on 2 amazing years which I will carry with me for the rest of my life.
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