That's Tough

  This morning, I was sitting in my office before work, using our wifi to chat with a friend back home, and he asked me what has been the hardest thing for me, having crossed the midway point of my service. I'm going to state right here: I miss my friends and family. That's #1 on my list. I have some great friends here, and my host families, both during training and here in Khorixas, have truly made me feel welcomed. And I have more internet access than many PCVs. But that doesn't change the fact that a lot has happened, and there have been times when I've felt truly isolated. With that said, I want to go deeper into the Namibia-specific things that have probably been the most difficult for me. Some  of these are specific to me, and lists like these will vary greatly among volunteers, based on where they are serving and when they served. Others on this list will probably appear on the list of any PCV being honest. I'm keeping the list to 7 things, and the numbers are just for me to count, not really a ranking. And sorry if this sounds negative. I love my life here, but this is a question I get asked a lot, and I feel it;s one worth answering.

1. Food- I've referenced my diet here before. It's mainly beans and rice, eggs, apples, and peanut butter sandwiches, with the occasional braai or splurge meal. In my town, despite having a fridge, between the prices and limited selection, I really don't have access to all my favorite fruits and veggies, basically limited to apples, oranges, apples, potatoes (I realize they're not fruits or veggies), cabbage (I may never eat another cabbage again in my life), onions, green peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin, butternut squash, and, once in a blue moon, avocados. On truly special occasions (maybe once every 2-3 months), I find myself at the Spar in Otjiwarrango, where I have more veggie choices, like mushroom (again, I know it's not really a veggie, but deal with it). Far less meat in my diet here, and you can't get boneless chicken in my town. Meat is also often a lot fattier. It also tends to taste better, in my opinion, because of the lack of hormones. Food cooked by Namibians also tends to include a lot more salt and mayonnaise for my taste, and lacks the kick I like. On the other hand, I love Ms. Ball's chutneys (and no, not because of the name)
2. My water situation- Okay, so I'm used to it now, but still, not having hot water, especially during the winter, sucks. Now, during the summer it's manageable, but cold showers during the winter, even if they're not as cold as they can get back home, is rough when you don't have heating. However, that's not my biggest issue. The real problem is how often my water gets cut off. My town is semi-desert. There is no body of water to fetch water from. So, when it gets cut out, I am screwed, unless I want to go buy water, which, on my budget, is not a great option. And when my water gets cut out (generally because of shortages or issues with the treatment system), it's usually out for at least 2-3 days, sometimes more. Basically, when it happens, my life sucks.
3. Timeliness- Namibian culture has a different view on the value of being on time than America, and it's been a struggle. It's considered rude to end a conversation before it's over, and people have other priorities, like their kids. So people are often late. Or they just won't show up. And they won't always tell you. For someone who would rather be 2 hours early than half a second late, that's taken some getting used to. I'm starting to get used to it, but it is frustrating, still. Adding to that is that when people say they're coming "now", that can mean they'll leave their place in some time in the next hour. Maybe sooner. Maybe later. But they'll come at some point. Maybe. Unless they get held up. "Now now" generally means you won't be waiting too long, but even that isn't always true. I could get into professionalism in general, and the fact that there's just a very different culture I'm having to adjust to, but the timeliness has been the hardest aspect of that.
4. Gender Roles- Legally, Namibia's made a big push for gender equality. We even recently had a day of prayer against Gender Based Violence. Still gender equality is a very recent concept. Every day, there are articles in The Namibian about women getting beaten, or even killed, for refusing sex or rejecting a guy or having a new boyfriend or refusing to cook dinner, or something like that. For the most part, I try to have an open mind when it comes to culture differences, but when it comes to gender equality, there is a right and a wrong, and the traditions in Namibia are wrong, plain and simple. Any culture where you aren't treated like a monster for hitting your wife, girlfriend, ex, or anyone else, committing rape, or any other kind of gender based violence is flat out not acceptable. It needs to change, and I hope my work here is making at least a small difference, but I've seen things that truly make my skin crawl. One night, walking home after a night out, I see a young woman being held up by 3 of her friends. Me and the friend with whom I was walking went to see what was going on. Turns out, she'd been beaten by her boyfriend. The left side of her face looked like and apple that's been left out in the sun for a few days and then dropped a few time. It was brutal. She could not walk, and her friends were struggling to support her (fortunately, my friend and I were there to help get her to the hospital). Another time, I was a judge for a debate contest. I won't get into the fact that it had no business being called a "debate" anything. The topic was gender based violence. Some of the speakers actually made it seem that they felt it was gender based violence when a woman spends all her husband's money, leaving him nothing to drink. They also seemed to imply it was excusable for him to get angry and hit her. There were also points about the gender equality thing being forced on men and making them feel threatened. It was hard to deal with, as someone who grew up in America, with parents who were pretty strong supporters of feminism, in a culture that is at least striving for gender equality. This has probably been the adjustment I've been most stubborn about not accommodating. It's also probably been the hardest to learn to live with.
5. Lack of luxuries- I've already mentioned the water thing and the foods. But, as someone who has grown up in, I think it's fair to say, a pretty comfortable environment, a lack of certain luxuries has taken some getting used to (I will say that this has been the easiest thing on this list to deal with, though probably the hardest at first). During the summers here, it's f***ing hot (sorry mom and dad, but I needed the emphasis). Not having A/C sucks. I make due with my fan, but that's not everywhere. Trying to stand over my stove cooking is brutal. Cold showers after work help. So does keeping a few cool beers around and bottles of water in the fridge. Still, it can suck. And the winter's lack of heating might be worse, since when I get out of the ice cold shower into the cold room, I feel like a "Jay-sicle." I have more access to internet than most, but still, it's nothing compared to the US. As most of you know, I'm trying to learn guitar, and most of the advice I've been given has been "go on Youtube and..." A 5 minute Youtube video can take an hour+ to load, and that's if the internet doesn't disconnect (if it does, I have to start over). Electricity goes out constantly, especially when it rains or gets hot (or when the ministry forgets to pay the electricity). With the heat, during the summer, without my fan, it is impossible to sleep with all the heat. I also can't cook, since my stove is electric. Doing laundry by hand is relaxing. Put on some good tunes and just do it. But it can really be annoying and exhausting after a while. Every once and a while, it would be nice to have a laundry machine. Not having a microwave or TV is annoying also, especially during the World Cup or NFL season.
6. Time zones- One of the challenges that has left me feeling isolated is the time zones, which make it tough to communicate. It's not easy to find time when both I and the friends and family back home I want to talk to are both available to Skype. Trying to find time to talk to my mom to help talking about her packing for her visit to me, between my work schedule and hers, has been very difficult. To make matters worse, Namibia changes it's clocks on different days than the US, and when we change our clocks back, the US goes forward. It's also been brutal during with the World Cup, with the US's first 2 matches both starting at 11pm. Super Bowl started after midnight (granted, it wasn't worth watching, I hear). I was up until like 9am when Tulane played in the New Orleans Bowl.
7. Isolation- I mentioned in the intro that hands down, the hardest part has been leaving behind my family and friends. I really don't have my support system. As those of you who have been reading from the beginning know, my grandpa passed away early in my service. It's been a year now, and the truth is it hasn't fully sunk in as a reality. I wouldn't have seen him, since he doesn't know how to use a computer and can't travel and phone calls are expensive. A lot has happened back home with friends and family, and I feel completely disconnected, almost as if I'm existing outside of their reality, and it's been pretty tough at times. People here have been supportive, and I have great friends here. But it's still really hard to feel so separate from those I care about.

I could keep going all day. There have been plenty of things that have been difficult. But those are the biggest for me. So, for those of you who keep asking me about what have been the challenges, there's your answer. My family is coming soon. Really looking forward to seeing them, and getting to watch a match or 2 of this World Cup with them. If I have time, I would love to write a post about what the World Cup experience has been like here, but we'll see, since I've been quite busy getting ready for a month of travel with my family. Until next time, enjoy.

World Cup Fever

  Those of you who know me know I am absolutely obsessed with soccer. Those of you who don't live under a rock know the World Cup starts in less than 2 weeks. In light of that, and some conversations I've been having with friends here, I decided to put together a short post on some thoughts.

  First of all, I am a massive USA fan. And I plan on killing my sleep cycle to watch every second of every USA game. I also realize we are in a ridiculously good group and our odds are long to make it to the knock-out round. That said, I think we have better odds than most people think, with Germany suffering a few injuries during the lead-up (not saying I am happy to see guys hurt, just offering analysis in relation to impact on the USA). I think Ghana is beatable (more on that in a bit, since Ghana is actually the reason I decided to write this post in the first place). I even think Portugal is a team we can shock, though it'll take a lot of luck, since Ronaldo can absolutely shred our defense.

 Of course, saying I think our odds are better than most people think isn't saying much, what with all the pessimism about this team And I don't blame people. However, we have a very solid and deep midfield. Not a top tier midfield, but probably mid-high second tier. We have the ability to create an attack, and guys like Diskerud and Zusi offer an element of creativity to go with Dempsey and Bradley. On the other hand, the midfield is also the biggest story of this USA team, with Landon Donovan being left off the roster. And let me say right now, I think that was a mistake. Donovan may no longer be a go-to starter. However, he's a guy with a proven record of success, experienced at this level, and someone who, if things go as people expect, has the maturity to keep things together, which would be good for the young guys. After all, in a group of death, disaster is always possible, and young players don't always handle it as well. I also think having someone with Donovan's scoring ability and leadership on the bench would offer a lot in a close game. I get what JK is doing, going young, kind of like England a few years ago with Theo Walcott. And Julian Green very well may be the future, and may have more speed, or even skill, than Donovan does today. I didn't see camp, so I can't speak to that aspect. I can speak to Donovan's experience, which could be a valued asset, and we saw with guys like Freddy Adu what happens when too much is expected too young from a guy and success doesn't come right away. Not saying Green is the next Adu, as Freddy is really an extreme example of too much expectation and hype too young and guys buying into it. But I also don't care about Julian Green's career as much as I do about Team USA's success. And I think JK left Donovan off the roster largely a sign that he is looking to 2018 already, essentially throwing in the towel for this Cup. This isn't club level. You don't have a "rebuilding year" during the World Cup; you have the 4 years between Cups for that. You bring the roster that you think can succeed this year, with no thoughts beyond the Finals, when building your roster. Obviously, I am not Klinsmann, and I may be reading his intentions incorrectly. This is just what it looks like to me.

 Moving beyond that, the other day I was talking about the World Cup and African Soccer in general with a friend of mine, and we both noted a trend among the teams consistently ranked as Africa's top. Ivory Coast, Cameroon, Nigeria, and Ghana tend to be the most successful in the region. They also tend to have more established national leagues, put more money into their national squads, and their best players tend to go to Europe and play for top teams. That last point is what I want to highlight. A lot has been said about the United States and our struggles against Ghana in the past few tournaments. On paper, the USA seems like a better team, and top-to-bottom, that may be true. However, when our guys go to Europe, they generally play for second-tier teams (even Dempsey never really broke through will a lower-end-of-the-top tier Tottenham team). Let's compare American and Ghanaian players currently playing in Europe, and who they play for:

USA
-Tim Howard, Everton, EPL (5)
-Brad Guzan, Aston Villa, EPL (15)
-John Brooks, Hertha BSC, Bundesliga (17, relegated)
-Geoff Cameron, Stoke City, (9)
-Tim Chandler, Nurnberg, Bundesliga (11)
-Fabian Johnson, Monchengladbach, Bundesliga (6)
-Mix Diskerud, Rosenborg, Nowegian Tippeligaen (2)
- Alejandro Bedoya, Nantes, Ligue 1 (13)
-Jermaine Jones, Besiktas, Turkish Super Lig (3rd)
-Julian Green, Bayern Munich, Bundesliga (1)
-Aron Johannson, AZ Alkmaar, Dutch Eredivisie (8)
-Jozy Altidore, Sunderland, EPL (14)

Only 9 guys in the "Big 4" leagues (England, Spain, Germany, Italy), only 2 guys were on top-5 clubs, and Green wasn't a starter on Munich, playing only 2 official minutes in the first team. Of course, some of the other guys had success, and Besiktas is a respectable team, but it's not the same as playing with the global powers. Now, let's look at the guys Ghana's putting on the field:

Ghana
-Adam Kwarasey, Stromsgodset, Trippligaen (1)
-Samuel Inkoom, Platanias, Superleague Greece (14)
-John Boye, Rennes, Ligue 1 (12)
-Daniel Opare, Standard Liege, Belgian Pro Ligue (4)
-Jonathan Mensah, Evian, Ligue 1 (16)
-Jerry Akaminka, Eskisehispor, Turkish Super Lig (8)
-Jeff Schlupp, Leicester City, Leauge Championship (1, promoted)
-Sulley Muntari, A.C. Milan, Seire A (8)
-Kwadwo Asamoah, Juventus, Serie A (1)
-Michael Essien, A.C. Milan, Serie A (8)
-Emmanuel Agyemang-Badu, Udinese, Serie A (13)
-Andre Ayew, Marseille, Ligue 1 (2)
-Christian Atsu, Vitesse, Eredivisie (6)
-Wakaso Mubarak, Rubin Kazan, Russian Premier League (9)
-Mohammed Rabiu, Kuban Krasnodar, Russian Premier League (8)
-Albert Adomah, Middlesbrough, League Championship (12)
-Kevin-Prince Boateng, Schalke, Bundasliga (3)
-Afriyie Acquah, Parma, Seria A (6)
-Majeed Waris, Valenciennes, Ligue 1 (19, relegated)
-Jordan Ayew, Sochaux, Ligue 1 (18, relegated)
-David Accam, Helsingborg, Swedish Allsvenskan (5)

Ghana star and one of
Africa's all-time best players,
Michael Essien

Essien in action for Chelsea

Now, Ghana has more players in Europe, but most of them are playing for second or third tier teams. The guy I really want to emphasize is Michael Essien. If you don't know who he is, you don't get to tell anyone you know anything about soccer (sorry hipsters posing as fans to seem cool). Michael Essien played many years for Chelsea, even being the team's player of the year in 2007, and winning 2 EPL titles, 1 Champions League title, and 4 FA Cups with Chelsea, with 25 goals in over 250 matches for the club. The guy has played for the best, against the best, and been coached by the best (namely, Jose Mourinho). That's a huge difference, because he's played under stressful situations and really knows how to succeed at the very top, something guys on Team USA just don't have (especially with Donovan gone) with the possible exception of Clint Dempsey. Kwando Asamoah played 32 league matches for Italian champs Juve this year, on top of 27 last year. Kevin-Prince Boateng played 28 matches for a solid Schalke team, and previously played for A.C. Milan. When was the last time the US had a player who'd played under a Jose, or a Pep, or a Wenger, or a SAF? When was the last time they had a guy with Champions League experience? These things are invaluable, and speak volumes as to why we tend to struggle against Ghana.

Cote D'Ivoir and Chelsea great
Didier Drogba

And lest you think only Ghana is like this, look at the guys on the Ivory Coast, like Drogba and Kalou and the Toures. Or Cameroon, with Alex Song and Samuel Eto'o. Nigeria has John Obi Mikel, Victor Moses, and Peter Oemwingie. Algeria, Africa's fifth entrant, may not quite fit the mold, though they too have guys on top European rosters. Soccer in the US has come a long way. We're just not there yet. And the different levels of experience of our top players gives one possible explanation of why Ghana's been such a problem for us. After all, while we may have an overall better and deeper roster, nobody on our team can hold a candle to Essien at his best.

  I've been reading about how they intend to use goal line technology to be certain of goals. I know there are purists out there who don't like the idea. Those purists are wrong. Think back to past games, like the USA/Germany game all those years ago, and how much of a difference it would've made. The fact is, if the technology exists, and it doesn't impact the movement of the ball or pose safety risks to players, which it sounds like it doesn't, then there is not one decent reason not to use the technology. I understand not wanting to go to replay and challenges, since time never stops and it would kill the flow, but I say goal line, and even sideline, technology are great.

  As for Qatar, I won't go too much into that, other than to say they have no business hosting it. Human rights violations, issues with alcohol, expecting fans who aren't Muslim to abide by Sharia law are all things that should disqualify a country from the get-go. On top of that, you have the fact that a country ranked outside the top 100, who has never come close to qualifying, should not be eligible to host so long as host countries automatically qualify, as it dilutes the quality of the product (and yes, I realize South Africa performed well, despite the fact that they likely would not have qualified, but at least they have qualified in the past). Never mind the question of "what if Israel qualifies"? I know that's not likely, but there is always the chance, and I doubt Qatar can guarantee the safety of every Israeli fan, player, and staff member, or that they would be treated with the same respect as any other country participating. And Israel is far more likely to qualify than Qatar would be. On the other hand, as much of a stain as this bribery scandal is, and you're an idiot if you think for a second there's a chance it isn't true, with FIFA's history, maybe this will be enough of a disgrace to shame Sepp Blatter out of his affiliation with the great game, because he's done so much to ruin it. And to Qatar, yeah, you're denying that the bribery took place. Because people never deny committing crimes they commit. Given all the reasons to doubt your  being worthy of hosting the World Cup, on top of FIFA's history of corruption, anyone who believes these denials is a fool (this isn't a court of law, there's no "innocent until proven guilty," just "if the boot fits"). The sooner they're stripped of their hosting of the event, the better.
As for the new jerseys, the ones that look like popsicles, I love them. Absolutely love them. Want to get one when I get back to the US. First of all, I love blue. Beyond that, I just think the thought of looking like a Rocket Pop is fun.

  The final thing is I want to offer congratulations to Nick Rimando for making the roster. So happy to see him finally get the honor, even if he never sees action. Such a class guy, and one of the best keepers DCU has ever seen. Congrats Nicky. I'll never forget 2004.

  Okay, so that is all. Just some rambling thoughts from a guy who loves soccer, and whose opinion counts little in the grand scheme. Enjoy the World Cup, and check back here soon, because I have another post that's almost ready to go and should be up later this week. Also, if you get a chance, the two music videos I've included in this post are from the album "One Love, One Rhythm", the official soundtrack to this World Cup. It's worth checking out. Music from a variety of artists from different countries and different styles. Now, enjoy some photos of USA players I like.

Captain Clint Dempsey

American Outlaws

Timmy

Yes, I know he missed the roster, but this was a great game for the USA and highlighted his value to this squad

Some used to think the only reason he was on the team was he was the former coach's son. Those people were wrong.

Terps star Zusi, who brings a bit to the midfield

Another Dempsey pic

Who says Americans don't like soccer?

When in doubt, just put it in the Mixer

Photo included only to show how much he looks like Mark Young

Beasley is the Energizer Bunny of Team USA. Just keeps going and adapting as he gets older.

Jones and Altidore. Hopefully Jozy's goal drought will end in Brazil

Sossusvlei

  Okay, this is a few months late. I could make excuses about being busy, but really, I just haven't felt motivated to write all that much. That changed because I recently helped a friend plan a trip of their own, and with Grace gone (so long, my dear), I have a bit more time on my hands. To be honest, however, the photos do more justice than this post will. So, a couple months an amazing trip to one of the most beautiful places I've been so far. An RPCV my mom met at an event in DC came to Namibia for work, and he asked me to join him for a trip to Sossusvlei. I took over 500 photos, though only about half made the cut (a little less).

  Before I begin with my adventures, I should probably tell my readers what Sossusvlei (Sossus from here on) is.  Sossusvlei is an area in the Namib-Naukluft National Park, said to be the world's oldest desert. It's in the southwest of Namibia. Basically, it's a bunch of sand dunes. One of the most famous landmarks is Dune 45, supposedly the most photographed sand dune in the world. Another notable landmark is Deadvlei. Deadvlei used to be a body of water, but movement of the tectonic plates has caused it to dry up, with dead trees said to be over 900 years old. It is reached by climbing a sand dune called "Big Daddy", one of the highest sand dunes you can climb. The dunes surrounding them are believed to be the highest in the world. Nearby is Sossusvlei itself, a dried up river pan, Sesriem, where we camped, and the Sesriem Canyon. Okay, so, I guess that's enough background.

  After an early start, we departed Windhoek for Sesriem. Unlike most of my travels, this time I went with a tour (an RPCV in Namibia for work had made the plans). This ended up being a good choice, since our guide was really well informed. After several hours driving south, we stopped in a place called Solitaire for lunch. Solitaire is a small place, mainly a lodge for travelers going to and from the south. It reminded my a bit of the "old west", with signs announcing the population size, a chart of monthly rainfall (measured in mm), a small "goods store", etc. They also had a bar where were able to watch some of the Olympics while we waited for lunch (cold cut sandwiches, which sat really nicely on such a hot day). Then, it was time to continue on to Sesriem, though we did stop a few times to admire the beauty, and to watch a zebra who wandered across out path. Then, in late afternoon, we arrived in Sesriem. After setting up camp and a quick dip in the pool (campsites are largely attached to lodges, and we had access to their facilities, such as pool, bar, and showers...so, luxury camping). Then, it was time to experience what we came to see. While our guide prepared dinner, we went over to the Elim Dune to watch the sunset. I made a huge mistake, and decided to wear boots. Climbing sand dunes in heavy boots is a poor choice. Added quite a bit of extra work, as it took about 3 or 4 steps to go the distance of one. Still, it was quite beautiful to watch the sun come down. However, what really struck me was how lively it was. The dunes, despite being so dry, were full of plants, bugs, and various small reptiles (and a rather large snake). Really hit home the point of the value of looking below the surface.

  Ok, so that was day one. However, the next day was when it got real nice. It started with us getting up well before sunrise and driving out to Dune 45. Dune 45 gets it's name because it's at the 45km mark from Sesriem. We, along with a number of other tourists, climbed the dune to watch the sunrise (and get in a morning workout). This time, I was a bit smarter, and wore my sandals, though I ended up taking those off eventually, to enjoy the cool sand on my feet. I'll admit I didn't quite make it to the top. I got to talking to some girls, and decided where they decided to stop was as good a place as any to sit and watch the sun, take some photos, and enjoy the beauty of nature. Then the sun came up, we descended, and had some breakfast at the foot of the dune, before setting off for Deadvlei. Deadvlei used to be an oasis, until the river dried up. Now, it's home to dead acacia trees that are hundred of years old, but which decay at a very slow rate, due to the lack of moisture. The ground, once fertile, is exactly what you think of when you picture Africa: hard as a rock, crusty, dry, and harsh. There are two ways to get into Deadvlei. One is by climbing Big Daddy, the largest climbable dune in the set. The other is a path through the sand. I chose the latter, since, by the point, climbing dunes just to say I did it was a novelty that had worn off. Plus, it was really hot. In less than an hour since the sun had come up, the sand had already gotten so hot it was burning people's feet. Still, Deadvlei is not a site to be missed. Since we had a 4x4, after Deadvlei, our guide took us to see some of the other sites in the area, include Sossusvlei proper.

  At this point, it was brutally hot, so we returned to camp for lunch, a swim, and a couple beers while watching the Olympics. We also stopped at the gas station to refill the air in our tires (and, in my case, to grab an ice cream). I found myself explaining hockey and downhill skiing to the Namibian employees of the lodge (and a Canadian tourist who I'm surprised hasn't had her Canadian citizen revoked for that). As the day progressed, and the heat began to fade, we went out to the Sesriem canyon, for which our campsite and the surrounding area was named. The canyon is home to a very small pool of water. Quite rancid smelling. Once every few years, this and Sossusvlei get rain and flood, bringing in flamingos and other birds. This was not one of those years. However, it was quite cool down in the canyon, which was nice. Now, there is one easy way out of the canyon. However, that required going back the way we came. We decided to do things the hard way, climbing up the side of the canyon.

  After a night's sleep, we packed, and it was time to head back to Windhoek. But not without one last stop along the way. Just outside the Solitaire lodge is a cheetah reserve. There are strict laws about breeding cheetahs. Now, don't picture a zoo. This facility, which takes mostly orphaned cheetahs, rehabilitates them, and uses them to study cheetah behavior, is a massive fenced off area, designed to resemble the rest of the landscape. Cheetahs are forced to eat by chasing down food, like they wood in the wild (though, in order to protect them from poachers, these cheetahs, who have a lot more experience with humans, are not released). Turns out, cheetahs are good at hiding. They also get funny looking potbellies the day after eating.

  So, that was it for the trip. We returned to Windhoek, where I met up with a few other PCVs for Indian food (where we ran into a few more) and drinks, before making my way back to Khorixas. As I said before, if you want the real story, check out my photos, up on Facebook.

   Hopefully, my blogging will get more consistent again. One thing I'm interested in doing is a post on any topics that interest you. So, if anyone has questions, either about life in Namibia, life of a PCV, or questions for any of my Namibian friends, feel free to send them my why, and I'll start compiling them and putting together answer (thanks for the idea, Crystal). I also want to put together something regarding the upcoming election, seeing as midterms in the US are putting that on people's minds (at least if I can fight my natural urges, and write it without getting political). I have a few more things floating around my head, plus my parents are coming soon, so I'll be doing quite a bit of traveling.

National Day of Prayer

  So, I'm working on a post about my trip to Sossusvlei. I know it's already been a couple weeks, but the truth is I think my photos say more than my writing will. However, I feel the need to talk about something that's been kind of bothering me ("bothering" may not be the right word, but I'll use it for lack of a better one).

  So, yesterday, Namibia observed a "National Day of Prayer for Gender Based Violence". That, by itself, didn't bother me. In a country that is so heavily Christian, that's not surprising. However, I saw several of the speeches, and a common thread started to get to me. Over and over again, I kept hearing people say "all we can do is pray." And THAT is what bothered me. Because it's very rare that there are situations where all you can do is pray, and most of those are in cases where all other options have been exhausted.

  Now, I don't take issue with the Day of Prayer itself. After all, every single day it seems I read another article (or more) about a man beating or murdering his wife, his girlfriend, or his ex. It's terrible, and everyone talks about it. However, praying is not the only thing that can be done. This is a common thing in Namibia, and this is not the only issue about which I hear the "all we can do is pray" thing, but given the timeliness, I am going to stick to that topic.

  There are, in fact many things that can be done. One of the most obvious things is when you feel the urge to beat someone, DON'T!!! Yeah, it really is that simple.Just don't do it. And if your friends is talking about doing it, or you hear or see someone beating someone else (male or female), step in. I realize that in practice, this may not be so cut and dry (after all, stepping in can put you at risk), but that doesn't change the fact that it is something that can be done.

  Another thing that can be done, and is being done, is educating people. This is slow, but will in the long-term lead to change, because cultural changes (and this is a cultural change, and a pretty big one at that). After all, the young are more open to new ideas (sorry if this comes off as ageist, but statistically speaking, this is fact, because the young are still developing, whereas the older have already formed their beliefs). So, while the older generation my have grown up in a culture where they were being taught that it is culturally acceptable to hit people who wrong you, the young are being raised in an environment where they are being told that it's wrong (even if they are also receiving mixed messages on the issue). It may take some time, but eventually it will help.

  Culture plays a big part. In Namibia, it is perfectly acceptable for a man to have multiple girlfriends. So, when a women gets mad about this, some men will think this is challenging their masculinity (while my personal opinions on the topic may be obvious, I'm not going to explicitly call their culture wrong, as much as acknowledge it's influence on the larger issue). At the same time, women are not allowed to have multiple partners (of course, many do, which causes problems). The acceptability of corporal punishment also contributes, because many of these incidents are people taking corporal punishment too far. Many men also see women as objects there for sex and cooking. That means if the guy comes home, especially if he is drunk, and there is  no dinner or the woman won't have sex, many men react violently. Obviously this has to change.

(At this point, I absolutely feel obligated to acknowledge that these issues are not specific to Namibia, and are even problems in the US, but since I'm talking about Namibia's Day or Prayer, I realize it may come off as a criticism of Namibian culture, which is not my intention. Rather, Peace Corps has taught u to look for "root causes" of problems and when I hear statements like "all we can do is pray", all I can see is the root causes and how I would address them, though I recognize that there can be more than one way to address an issue, so I am going to speak generally about solutions, a habit I've developed in Namibia, where many of my learners will take examples and just copy them without adding original ideas.)

  Alcohol abuse also contributes to the problem in a big way, though I'm not going to get into that one for now, because alcohol abuse is probably the biggest problem Namibia faces, a contributing factor to almost every issue, and I could write a full post on that alone. However, I'll jut say that enforcing the Liquor Act would be a good step.

  Enforcing other laws would help. The fact is, Namibia's court system is so backed up that some of these GBV cases can take years to reach trial, and in many times, the person who committed the act is allowed to walk free (and a majority of people who would beat someone once will do it again). On top of that, the police tend to be understaffed, so it's hard for them to respond in time.

  One great resource for dealing with this issue is the Ministry of Gender Equality and Child Welfare. That's right, there is an entire ministry dedicated to this issue, and they have all sorts of manuals and resources for trying to do outreach for different age groups on this topic.

  I know it's cliche, but I am going to wrap up now, and I think the most appropriate ending is with the story of the man who was drowning. A man in New Orleans hears all the warnings about Hurrican Katrina, but chooses not to leave. Sure enough, the man soon finds himself up to his neck in water after the levees broke, with the water still rising, so he begins to swim, but knows he can only do so for so long. A man in a raft passes him by and says "get in", but the drowning man says "no, I am religious, and I know God will save me" A few minutes later, a Muslim in a rowboat approaches (yes, I now working a David Eggers reference into this post), and says "get in", but again the man replies "no, I am religious, and I know God will save me." Then a National Guard helicopter approaches, and again he is offered a rescue, and again he turns it down, saying "no, I am religious, and I know God will save me." Well, the man drowns, and upon his death, he meets God, and he asks "God, I don't understand, I am religious, I prayed to you, and yet how could you let me die?" God replies, "I sent you a warning, I taught you to swim, I sent 2 boats and a helicopter. What more do you need from me?" Well, Namibia has been blessed with news outlets reporting the horrors. People are blessed with the ability to react when they see something wrong. There are education tools and a ministry dedicated to this very issue. While I believe it certainly can't help to ask for more help, there comes a point where Namibia must take proactive steps to address the problem. Hopefully this Day of Prayer will be a step towards further measures, but the next step must be taking personal responsibility, and that starts with recognizing that prayer is not the only answer. The tools are there. Now they must be used.

Okay, a bit harsh and oversimplified, but still

  So, sorry, if this came off a bit rant-y. That wasn't my intent, so much as going into the situation here. A more positive article on my travel should be up this weekend.

Free Time

Probably my favorite photo I've taken so far
(keep reading, it'll make sense)

  I realize I haven't written in quite some time, but it's my mom's birthday, so I figured I should at least make mention of that, and point out how great the internet (and Amazon.com) are for helping make it possible to send gifts while thousands of miles away from everyone. So, it's been a fairly busy start to the year, though particularly interesting so far. My computer classes are up and running again, and Grace is getting ready to COS. I'll be starting (this Friday, actually) to give English classes to our local Traditional Authority (which I will talk about in a future post, I'm sure, since I'm guessing many of you are wondering what that even means). I'll also be taking part in some programs to help people in some of the villages nearby register to vote, since Namibia is holding elections later this year. I'm also getting ready to take a trip to the sand dunes of Soussesvlei on the 18th, which is exciting, and should lead to some nice photos and another post here. As summer is coming to an end, the weather is starting to cool off (it rained last night and the temperature dropped about 10 degrees C overnight). Also, being close to South Africa, I'm starting to develop more of a fondness for wines, something I'm sure I'll explore more when my parents come to visit in a few months (thanks for the tuna, football, and contacts). I should also note that an RPCV who served in Benin and happened to have an encounter with my mother also happened to be coming to Namibia, and was the courier of that package, so thanks. Okay, so, as Namibians would say at this point (before proceeding to give a long-winded speech without really saying much of anything important, not too unlike an American politician), all protocol has been observed.

From my trip to the coast. Reminds me of a beer ad
(or an ad for Levi's Jeans)

  So, I've been in country almost a year now (about 1 month and a couple days shy of hitting that milestone), and one thing I've learned from talking to RPCVs and friends serving elsewhere, both in Namibia and in other countries, is that my experience has been different. That's not surprising, since the situations vary so greatly from country-to-country, village-to-town, region-to-region, and era-to-era. However, one thing that's almost a given and universal experience for every single PCV I've talked to, past, present, and probably future: there's a whole lot of down time. Like hours of it per day. Many days you have more down time than productive time. It's just a reality. And unlike in the US, for most PCVs, simply dicking around the internet or watching TV just isn't an option. So, you find ways to fill that time.

  So, what do you do? Well, I'll start with some PCV generalities, before talking about myself specifically. One of the more common time fillers is reading. You have hours to kill, and the volunteer lounge in PC office in my country is full of books. My aunt, and RPCV, has described spending hours in a library at her site, reading everything she could get her hands on, and the invention of e-readers (and online access to libraries even) makes it even easier (at least when the PCV can get online). Obviously, when there is internet available, many of us will take advantage, going on Facebook, checking the news, e-mails, blogging, etc. Many PCVs have computers and external hard drives and spend time watching shows and movies. Many get into writing. Namibia is not on the list of countries with PCV books, yet. Who knows, maybe I'll change that. I have started writing a little (and here we begin the transition into my personal experiences), starting a couple short stories (though those have been set in New Orleans, not Namibia),

Dangers of having a pet, as Grace learned.

and a few essays about my experience (none at a stage worth sharing so far, though one I'm putting time in compares development of a country with the development of soccer in a country and the similarities and trends), as well as some thoughts I have on reforming development aid, which largely draws from my experiences here and in post-Katrina New Orleans. Time (and money) permitting, traveling is also something PCVs try and do. After all, who knows when the next time you'll be in Namibia will be (or anywhere in Africa, or Eastern Europe, or South/Central America, etc.). Some travel more than others, leaving site almost every week or 2, while others, like me, try and limit it to once a month at most (partially to save money). Of course, many PCVs realize there's life after they get back, and take the time to start preparing for that next step. As they get closer to their COS date, many will apply for jobs/grad school. Before this, many take advantage of the quiet down time and limited distractions to study for the GRE, LSAT, or other graduate exams (here's where I put a shout out to my friend Alicia, who is just starting the process of studying for the LSAT in June). I took the LSAT before I got here, but I'm considering looking into some sort of joint JD/masters program, and may take the time to study for the GRE myself (but I plan on waiting until I get back to the States to actually take it). People may even get pets to occupy them (they also serve functional purposes, like keeping out rodents, pests, snakes, and annoying people, providing security, and helping keep the floors clean, though there's always the cost).

One of my host siblings

  Of course, there are ways to use the free time to integrate into your community. Every couple weeks (sometimes even more often), I will visit my host family and spend a couple hours playing with the children (3 little monkeys jumping on the Jay). You also go to bars and have drink, chat with locals, and hang out with co-workers over a beer after work. You may attend a local sporting event, or even play soccer with friends in the town.  Or just go for a walk/jog so people see you. Or, you may just throw a braai (or, if not in southern African, have friends/colleagues over for a meal) or attend a wedding or church.

Latkes, though not in my cookbook, are something
I've taught friends here to make.

So, those are some of the generalities. One great thing about Peace Corps is that it's a great time to start a new hobby. In my case, I got a nice camera before I came here. While I'd done a little bit of photography back in States (even taking a class in high school), Namibia, with it's bright sun and beautiful scenery offered me a chance to really...um...develop some skills as a  photographer. Walking around town with a camera, traveling, just sitting watching my host kids play with their friends, there have been many chances for me to take pictures and work on taking good ones, rather than just simple "point-and-shoot" "Facebook" style pictures. Another thing I've been working on is a cook book, which is currently close to 100 recipes (those are done being tweaked and I've confirmed all the ingredients are usable in my town). I'm also a musician. Those who know me know I've been playing the drums for about a decade now. I brought my drumsticks and a practice pad, but realistically, there is only so much I can do to improve here without regular access to a drum kit. So, over the weekend, I went out and got a guitar, and
am taking the time to try and learn to play. So far, the going is slow, but I have the afternoons free most days, so I'm able to find at least 3 hours a day to practice, and can already see some improvement (not hard when starting from ground 0) over the 3 days. Thanks to my iPad, I even have it in tune. Every couple weeks sometimes more often than that), Grace and I will get together with Konako, a volunteer in our town from Japan, or with some friends of hers, and just cook a nice dinner together, listen to music, enjoy some "hubbly bubbly" (hooka, nothing illegal, I promise to any PC staff or family members reading this)

Showing off a little of my photography in this post.
Many of the photos have appeared in previous posts as well.

  Of course, when all is said and done, there is still a lot of down time that doesn't get filled. Much of it is just spent wrapped in thoughts, lying in bed, or out in the sun, maybe some music playing, just relaxing and getting comfortable with yourself. So, to any future PCVs who may be reading this, my advice to you is simple: find a hobby, go out and socialize, read, travel, explore your country, but most of all, be ready to explore what's inside you, and embrace the alone time, since you may never have this much of it again without the distractions of life in America.

My new guitar and the drum I bought here.
Sticks are jut an artistic presence in this picture

Gifts Will Keep On Giving

  Gifts! They're something that many packing lists mention bringing, but many people consider an afterthought when packing. In Peace Corps, one thing that all PCVs have as a common thread in our experiences is the homestay. Whether during training or during your service, one thing Peace Corps likes for their volunteers is for the PCV to live with a local family. It helps with language, it gives the PCV a family/direct connection to the country and community where they're serving, and they can teach the PCV about local culture/traditions/cooking/living techniques. In many cases, these homestays will involve children. As a result, I am making this list a little longer than the last 2. Of course, gifts aren't only something for the host family. Small gifts are a good way to make friends in the community and teach people about where you are from. A good gift will be something the person will enjoy/be able to use AND which will have a meaning beyond just being nice. For the record, this list is the reason I wrote these 3 lists, figuring it would be a good holiday themed post, without doing a cliche "how they celebrate the holidays differently here" or "what I did over my break" posts, though, I assure you, the latter will be coming, once my break actually ends.

Things That I Found Make Good Gifts

• Playing Cards. They're small. They're something you can use on the flight over. Children love them (at least from my experience). You can play games. You can impress the host family with a simple magic trick or 2. And, rather than buying a generic pack, there are novelty packs out there, so you can have something that actually reflects where you come from or an interest you have.
• Balls. Soccer is huge almost everywhere in the world. American football is a nice cultural thing. Both of these can be deflated and fit nicely into a suitcase (the problem with basketballs is that they need a net/hoop, and they tend to be a little heavier). If those are too big, a baseball is as American as it gets. In all likelihood, the ball won't last long. However, children love them. I keep mentioning children because, at least in my experience, they're a key to integrating quickly. They're more likely to be learning English, so they can help as translators. And, if the children trust you, so will the adults. And, like the playing cards, you can get balls with logos of teams you support, so that the gift is more of a reflection of yourself.
• Hats. Again, something that comes in a variety to reflect something of your background, while also being functional. These make good gifts fr both adults and children, but it's good to now about local customs regarding headwear, so you don't offend anyone.
• Pictures. Look around your house/your parents' house/your grandparents' house. You'll see family pictures. Guess what, you're going to be part of the family now. Act like it. A nice photo of yourself, maybe with your parents and/or any siblings you have makes a nice gift, and is a way to teach your new family about the people you left behind. It's also a good way to practice your new language, getting comfortable with describing people (at least "family" terms, and maybe even clothes and colors to point to the people in the photo).
• Food. Preferably something that reflects where you're from. For example, from New Orleans, maybe some creole seasoning, or beignet mix, or hurricane mix, or Tabasco. Or, for Maryland, some Old Bay. Or, if you want something American, but not area specific (or just something you can grab at the airport because you didn't plan ahead), chocolate. Hershey's is quintessential American. Children and adults alike all tend to love chocolate. Just be careful, because melting does happen.
• Flags. Shortly before I came here, I attended President Obama's second inauguration. While I was there, I bought a bunch of American flags, the cheap ones we give to children to play with on the 4th of July. It's something American, so they'll always associate it with you.
• Coins. Okay, so, say you didn't think to get a gift. But, maybe you got a cup of coffee, or some chewing gum, maybe a magazine at the airport. Or, maybe you just never took the change out of your wallet/purse/backpack before you left the States. Well, you're in luck. Because those coins can mae a nice gift. Yes, it's a bit cheap. But people do collect them, and they're certainly something American. But seriously, if you plan on giving coins, make sure you have a complete set at least, and it probably shouldn't be the only thing you bring. This tends to be better for adults or for co-workers, because I gave some to my host children, and immediately found myself being pulled towards the gas station to buy candy with the coins (sadly, the store doesn't take American money).

Give With Caution

• Clothes. T-shirts are a common gift. Problem is whether it will fit the recipient. If not, you can always find someone else. Of course, the other problem is whether people will wear it. In Namibia, they would. In fact, I have people begging for my American clothes, which is thought to be of higher quality. But, in some cases, it may be something that doesn't fit with traditional dress or local trends. So, just be cautious with giving clothes.
• Shot glasses. An easy gift if you want something to reflect where you're from. However, if alcohol is not a thing in your community (even if it is drank elsewhere in the country, in some communities, booze is a no-go, or at least shots), it can be offensive. Granted, if you don't give it, you can use it for yourself. One of the bigger risks with giving shot glasses as gifts is breaking, so plastic ones might be a better choice.
• Anything that has even a remotely political theme. Beware: Not everyone likes the same politics you do. At the inauguration, my mom insisted I get a bunch of Obama things to bring. Truth is, many people in Namibia like Obama (you can even get hats from street vendors with his face on them). But not everyone does. Just make sure that if any of your gifts can in any way be associated with anything political, you know the person you're giving it to.
• Maps. Okay, so, this might not seem like too risky a thing off the bat. And they're not something too bad. But they're ind of hokey and less personal. That doesn't mean they're bad gifts. But, if you're going to give one, at least make it a nice one.

  Obviously, this is not a comprehensive list. For instance, I gave a lot of people Mardi Gras beads. Something that truly reflects who you are, where you come from, what your interests are, etc., are great. This is just meant to be a bit more of a generic gift. While gifts tend to be more of an afterthought in the packing process, they can make a big impression, so put some thought in it.

If Only I'd Brought

  So, yesterday I posted about things I'm glad I'd brought with me. Those were some of the more useful things (given how easily that list could've been expanded, I might've exaggerated a bit when I said "Most Useful Things"). Today, we're looking a little more into hindsight. While it's not quite 20/20 yet (I am still less than a year in), my vision is getting a lot clearer on this one (certainly more so than with how useful things I brought were). Some of these things were things I didn't think to bring, some were things I just didn't have room for, and some were things I brought, but wish I had more of. Like yesterday's list, I could easily expand this to 10 items, but limiting it to 5 forced me really to thin about it a lot more.

Things I Wish I'd Brought

• Soccer cleats. I really wish I'd brought mine. They're just great to have. I play a lot of soccer, and occasionally rugby, and not having cleats really puts me at a disadvantage, and while I can get them here, finding a pair in my size and price range is tough, especially if I want them to be durable. These were the "last thing out" when I packed, and probably my biggest regret.
• Phone. Some people in my group were smart and brought unlocked phones from the US. When they got here, all they needed to do was go to a corner shop and get a SIM card. I was not so smart, so I didn't have a phone for the first few weeks, which made contacting people about meeting places tough. Also, if you want a smart phone, they're super expensive here (I'm fine with my simple phone with internet that can tell me football/soccer/hockey scores and let me check Facebook/Gmail, but if you want a phone that can use Whatsapp or similar programs, get it before you leave the US)
• More memory cards. Okay, maybe I take more pics than most people, but I don't think so. I've already filled the smaller of my two memory cards, and the second is almost half full, and it's been less than a year. Yes, I can go through and delete pictures, but to go through a few thousand pictures is super time consuming. Also, an SD card is almost as versatile as a USB stick for transferring and transporting files, and often can hold more memory in a smaller size.
• US cash. Like the memory card, yes, I brought some. However, my Namibian money is pretty much worthless if  travel outside the country. US dollars are great because you can use them in any country, and exchange rates for cash tend to be lower than using an ATM, where you pay both transaction fees and exchange rates.
• Maps/flags/posters. You're going to be there for 2 years. It's nice to have something to remind you of home. I had a few things from sports teams (Tulane banner, Skins flag, and Nats #Natitude towel), but things like an American flag (or, in my case, New Orleans, which my mom shipped me) you can hang up does give your home that little "home" feel of being a small haven of America. Also, if you have windows, flags and posters over them work as curtains/blinds, on top of their decorative value. Maps are also good, especially large ones, which can be hung up on the walls. I'm interested in learning about Namibia. Namibians are also interested in learning about my culture. A map is a good tool when trying to teach people about where you're from.