Gifts Will Keep On Giving

  Gifts! They're something that many packing lists mention bringing, but many people consider an afterthought when packing. In Peace Corps, one thing that all PCVs have as a common thread in our experiences is the homestay. Whether during training or during your service, one thing Peace Corps likes for their volunteers is for the PCV to live with a local family. It helps with language, it gives the PCV a family/direct connection to the country and community where they're serving, and they can teach the PCV about local culture/traditions/cooking/living techniques. In many cases, these homestays will involve children. As a result, I am making this list a little longer than the last 2. Of course, gifts aren't only something for the host family. Small gifts are a good way to make friends in the community and teach people about where you are from. A good gift will be something the person will enjoy/be able to use AND which will have a meaning beyond just being nice. For the record, this list is the reason I wrote these 3 lists, figuring it would be a good holiday themed post, without doing a cliche "how they celebrate the holidays differently here" or "what I did over my break" posts, though, I assure you, the latter will be coming, once my break actually ends.

Things That I Found Make Good Gifts

• Playing Cards. They're small. They're something you can use on the flight over. Children love them (at least from my experience). You can play games. You can impress the host family with a simple magic trick or 2. And, rather than buying a generic pack, there are novelty packs out there, so you can have something that actually reflects where you come from or an interest you have.
• Balls. Soccer is huge almost everywhere in the world. American football is a nice cultural thing. Both of these can be deflated and fit nicely into a suitcase (the problem with basketballs is that they need a net/hoop, and they tend to be a little heavier). If those are too big, a baseball is as American as it gets. In all likelihood, the ball won't last long. However, children love them. I keep mentioning children because, at least in my experience, they're a key to integrating quickly. They're more likely to be learning English, so they can help as translators. And, if the children trust you, so will the adults. And, like the playing cards, you can get balls with logos of teams you support, so that the gift is more of a reflection of yourself.
• Hats. Again, something that comes in a variety to reflect something of your background, while also being functional. These make good gifts fr both adults and children, but it's good to now about local customs regarding headwear, so you don't offend anyone.
• Pictures. Look around your house/your parents' house/your grandparents' house. You'll see family pictures. Guess what, you're going to be part of the family now. Act like it. A nice photo of yourself, maybe with your parents and/or any siblings you have makes a nice gift, and is a way to teach your new family about the people you left behind. It's also a good way to practice your new language, getting comfortable with describing people (at least "family" terms, and maybe even clothes and colors to point to the people in the photo).
• Food. Preferably something that reflects where you're from. For example, from New Orleans, maybe some creole seasoning, or beignet mix, or hurricane mix, or Tabasco. Or, for Maryland, some Old Bay. Or, if you want something American, but not area specific (or just something you can grab at the airport because you didn't plan ahead), chocolate. Hershey's is quintessential American. Children and adults alike all tend to love chocolate. Just be careful, because melting does happen.
• Flags. Shortly before I came here, I attended President Obama's second inauguration. While I was there, I bought a bunch of American flags, the cheap ones we give to children to play with on the 4th of July. It's something American, so they'll always associate it with you.
• Coins. Okay, so, say you didn't think to get a gift. But, maybe you got a cup of coffee, or some chewing gum, maybe a magazine at the airport. Or, maybe you just never took the change out of your wallet/purse/backpack before you left the States. Well, you're in luck. Because those coins can mae a nice gift. Yes, it's a bit cheap. But people do collect them, and they're certainly something American. But seriously, if you plan on giving coins, make sure you have a complete set at least, and it probably shouldn't be the only thing you bring. This tends to be better for adults or for co-workers, because I gave some to my host children, and immediately found myself being pulled towards the gas station to buy candy with the coins (sadly, the store doesn't take American money).

Give With Caution

• Clothes. T-shirts are a common gift. Problem is whether it will fit the recipient. If not, you can always find someone else. Of course, the other problem is whether people will wear it. In Namibia, they would. In fact, I have people begging for my American clothes, which is thought to be of higher quality. But, in some cases, it may be something that doesn't fit with traditional dress or local trends. So, just be cautious with giving clothes.
• Shot glasses. An easy gift if you want something to reflect where you're from. However, if alcohol is not a thing in your community (even if it is drank elsewhere in the country, in some communities, booze is a no-go, or at least shots), it can be offensive. Granted, if you don't give it, you can use it for yourself. One of the bigger risks with giving shot glasses as gifts is breaking, so plastic ones might be a better choice.
• Anything that has even a remotely political theme. Beware: Not everyone likes the same politics you do. At the inauguration, my mom insisted I get a bunch of Obama things to bring. Truth is, many people in Namibia like Obama (you can even get hats from street vendors with his face on them). But not everyone does. Just make sure that if any of your gifts can in any way be associated with anything political, you know the person you're giving it to.
• Maps. Okay, so, this might not seem like too risky a thing off the bat. And they're not something too bad. But they're ind of hokey and less personal. That doesn't mean they're bad gifts. But, if you're going to give one, at least make it a nice one.

  Obviously, this is not a comprehensive list. For instance, I gave a lot of people Mardi Gras beads. Something that truly reflects who you are, where you come from, what your interests are, etc., are great. This is just meant to be a bit more of a generic gift. While gifts tend to be more of an afterthought in the packing process, they can make a big impression, so put some thought in it.

If Only I'd Brought

  So, yesterday I posted about things I'm glad I'd brought with me. Those were some of the more useful things (given how easily that list could've been expanded, I might've exaggerated a bit when I said "Most Useful Things"). Today, we're looking a little more into hindsight. While it's not quite 20/20 yet (I am still less than a year in), my vision is getting a lot clearer on this one (certainly more so than with how useful things I brought were). Some of these things were things I didn't think to bring, some were things I just didn't have room for, and some were things I brought, but wish I had more of. Like yesterday's list, I could easily expand this to 10 items, but limiting it to 5 forced me really to thin about it a lot more.

Things I Wish I'd Brought

• Soccer cleats. I really wish I'd brought mine. They're just great to have. I play a lot of soccer, and occasionally rugby, and not having cleats really puts me at a disadvantage, and while I can get them here, finding a pair in my size and price range is tough, especially if I want them to be durable. These were the "last thing out" when I packed, and probably my biggest regret.
• Phone. Some people in my group were smart and brought unlocked phones from the US. When they got here, all they needed to do was go to a corner shop and get a SIM card. I was not so smart, so I didn't have a phone for the first few weeks, which made contacting people about meeting places tough. Also, if you want a smart phone, they're super expensive here (I'm fine with my simple phone with internet that can tell me football/soccer/hockey scores and let me check Facebook/Gmail, but if you want a phone that can use Whatsapp or similar programs, get it before you leave the US)
• More memory cards. Okay, maybe I take more pics than most people, but I don't think so. I've already filled the smaller of my two memory cards, and the second is almost half full, and it's been less than a year. Yes, I can go through and delete pictures, but to go through a few thousand pictures is super time consuming. Also, an SD card is almost as versatile as a USB stick for transferring and transporting files, and often can hold more memory in a smaller size.
• US cash. Like the memory card, yes, I brought some. However, my Namibian money is pretty much worthless if  travel outside the country. US dollars are great because you can use them in any country, and exchange rates for cash tend to be lower than using an ATM, where you pay both transaction fees and exchange rates.
• Maps/flags/posters. You're going to be there for 2 years. It's nice to have something to remind you of home. I had a few things from sports teams (Tulane banner, Skins flag, and Nats #Natitude towel), but things like an American flag (or, in my case, New Orleans, which my mom shipped me) you can hang up does give your home that little "home" feel of being a small haven of America. Also, if you have windows, flags and posters over them work as curtains/blinds, on top of their decorative value. Maps are also good, especially large ones, which can be hung up on the walls. I'm interested in learning about Namibia. Namibians are also interested in learning about my culture. A map is a good tool when trying to teach people about where you're from.

Useful Things

  I brought a lot with me to Namibia. for the most part, the packing lists from Peace Corps were good. Some of the things were more useful than others. Some things were less useful. Some things were not included, and were therefore left behind, even though they would've been great to have. I'm working on a more comprehensive list, which I will have as a Page, which I hope can be a resource for those considering the Peace Corps. However, here's a short list of the most useful things I brought, things I wish I brought, and things that made/would've made good gifts for people here. I'm going to limit myself to 5 items for each thing. I'll be giving each category it's own post, spaced out over the next couple days, so be sure to check in. Please note, I'm using bullets, rather than numbers, because the orders of my list are not arranged in any order. Also note, these are based on who I am, so another person's list may vary greatly. For this reason, I'm actually asking various friends here for their input on the larger list.

Most Useful Things I Brought

• E-reader/books. So, people who now me know I love to read (I know, I gotta update my reading list, which is a few weeks out of date). In my case, it's my iPad. On it, I am able to take books anywhere and it's far easier to download books than to try and find them here, and there is no way I could've afforded 2 years' worth of books in a suitcase. The backlight is also useful at night, and the iPad's other apps and internet capability has made it useful (especially getting to listen to music while I read). That said, there is something for paper books. People bother you less when you have them, they don't need batteries, and they're easier to share.
• Knife. I brought 2 knives with me. One is my old Leatherman Juice J2. Despite it's age (I had it through most of my years in the Scouts), it's been super useful. I never go anywhere without it. I have the blade (obviously), the scissors, and the bottle opener, which I use regularly. However, the pliers and screw drivers have proven more useful than I imagines. Also, a can-opener that doesn't jam is a great tool, if you have the wrist strength. The other knife I brought was my CRKT Thunderbolt, which I got a few days before I left. It's been used to kill chickens and a warthog, it's a good kitchen knife (though I have others), it's a decent tool for protection (not so much fights, but annoying dogs, which get scared off). When I need a cup, I've even been able to use it to turn plastic bottles into cups, in a pinch. In general, both knives are important to take with me, and I'm glad I brought them (yes, I know those are 2 things, but I'm counting them as 1).
• Hot Sauce/spices that remind you of home. Let's be honest. You're going somewhere new. The food is going to be (and I say this with all due respect for cultures) weird. It's going to take some time to get comfortable with it. A bottle (or a few bottles) of hot sauce (I recommend a variety of Tabascos, like the regular and chipolte, so you have options). Yes, you can make your own, or, in many cases, buy some in country. But, just in case, a little hot sauce goes a long way towards making food a lot easier to get down. Same with spices. Old Bay and creole seasonings (like Tony's) just have a feeling of home. During those first few weeks, that comfort is nice to have.
• Camera. Obviously, you don't need to do what I did and buy a nice Nikon DSLR with accessories before you leave. However, a good camera is great to have to chronicle your experiences. I recommend a digital, since film can be hard to find, and you might not be able to develop it before you get back, during which time, the film could get ruined or lost. Memory cards are easier to get in coutry these days (and see below for more), hold thousands of photos, and can be used to store other files as well. And, if you have the money, my Nikon D3200 and the zoom lens have certainly proven to be great things, as I've been able to get more into photography (phone camera and point-and-shoots just don't have quite the options, once you get the practice).
• Sunglasses. Okay, maybe this is more Africa specific. However, sunglasses have been vital. I was debating what to put in the last spot, since I could easily include 10 or more items here, but since I'm planning on a larger list at a later date, I'll keep it to the 5. I include sunglasses because I was the only male in my group who thought to bring them (and, fortunately for them, multiple pairs). They don't have to be super nice. In fact, I'd recommend cheap ones, since they may break, they'll certainly get scratched, you might lose them, or they can be stolen. Bring lots. I brought about 7 pairs, only 2 of which remain. This is less about fashion and more about being prepared for your environment (if you're going somewhere less sunny, you can substitute in any item that can, in theory, be gotten there, but which you'll want right away).

Mandela

  So, as everyone knows by now, Nelson Mandela passed away last night. The man was well loved in Namibia, and I was considering putting out something on my thoughts, but the truth is they would all sound cliche and a bit silly. Instead, I am going to use this post to provide links from local news sources and any photos I take of tributes around my town, so you can get an idea of how big this is. I will be updating this periodically over the weekend, so check in for anything that might interest you (he died around midnight here, so many of the news sources have yet to get things together)

http://www.newera.com.na/2013/10/04/get-madiba-charity-concert/ This one is not about his death, but it gives an idea of how beloved the man was, with a charity concert to raise money for him when he was sick.

http://www.nbc.na/news_article.php?id=11679&title=Nelson-Mandela-dies Statement from NBC. I'll see if I can find any tribute they put out later.

http://www.namibian.com.na/indexx.php?id=6958&page_type=story_detail A wonderful tribute from the Namibian (they also had some great Facebook posts, some of which I will include).

http://www.namibian.com.na/indexx.php?id=6281&page_type=story_detail An article from a few days ago about opening a center to preserve the legacy of Mandela. While this center is in South Africa, most Namibians include Mandela as part of their legacy and heritage.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Namibian/284922901537221 I highly recommend you read through the postings and comments here. It will really paint the picture for you. Here are a few of their posts:

"BREAKING NEWS

Nelson Mandela has died. 
"This is the moment of our deepest sorrow. Our nation has lost its greatest son." – South African President Jacob Zuma addressing the nation on #Madiba's passing

RIP, tata"

In a country where most people have limited or no access to computers with internet, this received over 260 comments, mostly "RIP" comments or people talking about what his legacy means to them. I also recommend reading the "Recent Posts by Others" segment. The Namlish may drive you crazy, but the sentiments will shine through.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/on-faith/wp/2013/12/05/the-moral-courage-of-nelson-mandela/ Not local (for me), but a beautifully written piece by Desmond Tutu.

http://www.aljazeera.com/news/africa/2013/12/world-leaders-react-passing-mandela-201312522531385658.html Reactions from different world leaders

http://stream.aljazeera.com/story/201312060117-0023236 "Upon hearing President Zuma's announcement, nearly 90,000 tweets out of South Africa were sent in less than two hours. South Africans online mourned the leader's death by remembering his courageous contributions to justice in the former apartheid-ruled country. Many shared their grief and gratitude on Twitter:"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLbOGCcqdR0 A short tribute video from the Republikein (and Afrikaans language newspaper).

http://www.namibiansun.com/news/giant-has-gone-rest-pohamba.60251# Reaction from Namibian President Hifikepunye Pohamba

http://www.namibiansun.com/news/south-africa-world-celebrates-mandelas-life.60250# Article for The Sun.

http://mg.co.za/article/2013-12-07-sa-mourns-with-dignity-and-dancing South African newspaper Mail & Guardian

I don't have any pictures, since I wasn't carrying a camera at the time, but while out for a walk this morning, there was a train of cars, all with pictures or flags or messages relating to Mandela, driving around and honking horns. Also, a few children blowing those damn vuvuzelas (courtesy of a promo by Tafel lager at Blue Corner). On Sunday, a day of prayer was held in South Africa. I'm not sure if it was an offical day of prayer here, but if it wasn't it was certainly an official one. I even saw people walking into churches wearing South Africa soccer and rugby jerseys.

A few tweets, from the Facebook page of The Namibian (the first one certainly resonates with me):
@Tau_Amour: Mandela suffered in prison longer than I’ve even lived but he changed the world we live in completely. What a man, what a hero.
@GordonThe_Dime: Nothing could prepare us for this loss. He touched the hearts that ached for peace. The world has lost a jewel.
@BonsaiBoiKeith: We bid farewell to another conqueror of Robben Island. Rest now, you have given us more than we can ever give to you, Tata.
@P_Elago: The best description I can give for Nelson Mandela is that he was heaven-sent…
@YazizaCEO: We lost an African phenomenon who, the minute you think of him, your pursuit becomes a reality!! ‪#‎MadibaMagic‬
@JasonCritic: Telling my four-year-old son about Mandela on the way to school. “Was he a super hero?” he asks. I paused a moment, then said “Yes”. 
@Tjaronda: Started in Qunu (village), now worldwide‪#‎InternationalSuperstar‬
@hafenislice: I am sure they will make him president again in the afterlife…
@JBoyega: Leaving such a legacy... Just simply amazing... It can be done.
@BenKatamila: The comrade has left us and now we must cherish the good he gave to the world. RIP Madiba
@Watitlooklike2u: Heroes never die.
@Nda_mono: Make every day a Mandela Day.

Of course, I would be remiss if I neglected to mention that not everything was positive. I've seen a few articles and comments (mostly from the US, but even some from here) about Mandela being nothing more than a "commie" and a "terrorist" and how honoring him is a disrespect to all the "innocent white people who lost their lives because of him and his terrorist organization/party." There are even people in the US (including a sheriff in South Carolina) who refused to honor him by flying the flag at half-mast. Which is their right. But it clearly shows a lack of understanding of who he was, what he meant, what he represented, and the reality of South African/Namibian history (I include Namibia because, though we were independent by the time he was made president, he still played a major role in the anti-apartheid movement here, which was influential on the independence movement). No, Mandela was not a saint. He did some horrible things, or was at least responsible. So was George Washington. Sadly, there is a cost for freedom and the fight for equality, and it sometimes has to be paid in blood. Is that good? No. Would it be nice if it could be avoided? Yes. But it's also a reality, and these "innocents" were themselves part of the repressive apartheid system. No, they did not deserve to die. Very few (if any people) deserve death, in my opinion, but all things, even death, must be viewed within the context. However, this was a man who, until the last few years of his life, was on the terrorist watch list, and for a reason. http://www.okwonga.com/?p=869

http://www.namibian.com.na/indexx.php?id=7059&page_type=story_detail An idea of how big the memorial has been.

http://www.namibian.com.na/indexx.php?id=7084&page_type=story_detail A reminder of how much he had to deal with.

http://www.namibian.com.na/indexx.php?id=7085&page_type=story_detail An idea of his impact on Namibia, especially the anti-apartheid movement, and the role education plays in any revolution.

SMS sent to The Namibian

"SWAPO and Zanu-PF of Zimbabwe are just the same. I don’t think there is a future for these small parties in Namibia. You can oppose but you will never succeed. Don’t ever play with the big boys. Allow me to say rest in peace father Nelson Mandela."

"NELSON Mandela was a true leader of South Africa and an icon of the world. May his soul rest in peace." 

"NELSON Mandela showed the world the true meaning of forgiveness. Rest in peace Madiba." 

"OH my heart is bleeding. How on earth did he go like that? I did not even have a chance to see him. Oh he is gone and we all will, but not like him we will die of hunger. My black man, my hero, my great grandpa. May your soul rest in peace Nelson Mandela the great." 

"NELSON Mandela. His greatness is undoubtedly incomparable." 

"MADIBA dead. The world at a standstill. Rest In Peace."

"TATA Madiba. A hero, a revolutionary, a fearless and visionary leader who left an immortal mark in history, global relations and international politics."

"MAY the soul of Tata Nelson Madiba Mandela rest in eternal peace. May his memory live on to light the lives of those that have known his extraordinary but yet modest life, as well light the lives of many generations that are yet to come. Thank you God for the life of this extraordinary citizen of the globe."

"THE world momentarily came to a standstill in celebration of a life well lived. Rest in peace Madiba."

"NELSON Mandela might not have died on the said day. Somebody must tell the truth."

"FORMER President Sam Nujoma, take a leaf out of Tata Nelson Mandela’s life and keep out of politics."

"NELSON Mandela. Indeed, what makes him standout above the rest is not his name, but his humanity, social and all-round humility in all spheres of life."

"THE world is poorer without Madiba! Rest in peace Tata." 

"NELSON Mandela was indeed a powerful figure with personality made of quality fine fibre. It is unfortunate that his fellow African leaders have never learnt anything from his exemplary leadership. They are still engulfed by greed and self glorification." 

"MY Madiba has gone, my heart is broken." 

"NELSON Mandela showed the world that even if we treat each other bad, God is merciful. Rest in peace Madiba."

 http://www.namibiansun.com/government/pohamba-nujoma-join-madiba-mourners.60273 Namibia's founding father and our current president joining the mourners.

http://www.namibiansun.com/international/emotional-farewell-planned-for-mandela.60286 The title says it all. I'm not sure I've seen someone so beloved die since I was in Spain when the pope died (and this probably tops that, too).

http://www.newera.com.na/2013/12/09/mandela-sadly-missed/ Again, just trying to highlight what the man meant to Namibia

December 9, around 8:30pm, The Namibian issued the following press release: 

News Update | National period of mourning for Madiba
President Hifikepunye Pohamba has announced a national three-day period of mourning for former South African President Nelson Mandela.In addition, flags in Namibia will fly at half mast from Friday to Sunday.

http://www.newera.com.na/2013/12/09/world-mourns-revered-icon/


Please, keep in mind, that the main purpose of this article was not to voice my own views on Mandela. Rather, it was meant to give my friends, family, and other readers, at home, and around the world, a snapshot of the reaction here to the death of Madiba. I hope you found it interesting.

Food

  Okay, so, I'm finally getting around to this post. For those of you who have not eaten yet, I'd recommend doing that first, since I'm going to be talking about food, so it's probably best not to read this on an empty stomach (or before grocery shopping). So, this post will be in two parts. First is about my Thanksgiving celebration, followed by what I eat here.

  So, to start, Thanksgiving. A bunch of us decided we wanted to celebrate a "real" American Thanksgiving, so, the weekend before Thanksgiving, we gathered in Otjiwarrango. By the time I arrived, the cooking was underway. Steve, a SEED volunteer who had been in Khorixas but now works for COSDEC in Otjiwarrango, and got permission for us to use the kitchen used for their hospitality trainings. One of the new teaching volunteers was a professional cook before he came here, and his talents put me to shame (and those who've had my cooking no I'm not being overly arrogant when I say that's saying something). A massive pot of mashed potatoes, squash, several kilos of stuffing, cornbread, and 3 turkeys. No, it wasn't my Thanksgivings in New Orleans,but the food was amazing and quite plentiful. Since actual Thanksgiving coincided with Hanukkah this year, I also make some latkes the night before and brought them with me, so we had something to snack on while we cooked. And we did cook. In total, they'd spent about 8 hours cooking the meal, and a number of wine and beer bottles were emptied in the process.

  Once we were done cooking (and following a nasty burn, for which we were thankful for my EMT training), we returned to the home of a teaching PCV, Marsha, who was opening her house to us as part of her last hurrah (as I am writing this, she is boarding her COS flight home). While we were cooking the above mentioned food, she and a couple others were making pies; 2 pumpkin and an apple. Needless to say, the food was plentiful. I probably ate more turkey that night than I eat meat in a normal week. Before eating, we went around the room and shared what we were Thankful for, and then we dug in to one of the best meals I've had in a while.

  After we finished dinner, a bunch of us went to a shabeen to pick up some more drinks, and we brought them back to enjoy while we relaxed and enjoyed pies. By the time we finished, we were all stuffed, a bit intoxicated, and ready to relax. I returned, with a couple others, to Steve's, while the rest stayed at Marsha and enjoyed movies. The next morning, we woke up, returned to Marsha's for leftovers and boardgames, and then went to the Otjiwarrango Spar for coffee (my favorite part of going to Otjiwarrango is real coffee, rather than the powdered crap I'm generally forced to slug down) before returning to Khorixas.

  I really enjoyed having a chance to say "goodbye" to Marsha, who opened her home to me on multiple occasions, and it was awesome getting to meet the new group of PCVs around my area, as well as Brett, the new PCVL in Otjiwarrango for the next year (also, got to say goodbye to Edward, the current PCVL who will COS in late December and who it takes 3 people to replace).

  Okay, so that was Thanksgiving. But, clearly, I don't eat massive plates of turkey, stuffing, potatoes, squash, and pie until I have to loosen my belt on a regular basis. Beyond the fact that it would be impractical, since it would be hard to get the right stuff in my town, it would also be impossible on my Peace Corps budget. So, what do I eat? Well, let me walk you through my meals.

Breakfast: I've really never been much of a breakfast eater. On work days, I'll usually just have a cup of coffee or 2, maybe a slice or 2 of toast, maybe a piece of fruit (generally an apple, sometimes an orange).  I often keep a dozen or so hard-boiled eggs in my refrigerator, a decent quick snack and useful for lunches. On weekends, I have a bit more time, and will generally be a bit more substantial with my breakfasts. Occasionally, I'll have an egg or 2, either hard-boiled or in omelet form ( eggs, some cabbage, some onion, maybe some peppers or other vegetables I can afford). Usually, though, I'll either have porridge or Weet-Bix (sort of like oatmeal, which I'll add some cinnamon or a little sugar, maybe milk, to). If I do porridge, I'll essentally treat it like grits, adding a little butter/margarine, maybe some spices, some onion, if I have any meat (biltong or dried sausages called droerwoers), cheese if I have it.

Lunch: Lunch is usually either leftovers from dinner or a peanut butter sandwich (I eat a lot of those). Sometimes I'll make soup, starting with some 3 minute noodles (basically ramen), with some vegetables, maybe meat, maybe some cayenne to it. Once or twice a week I'll eat out for lunch. It's my way of supporting local businesses. I'll either go to the gas station (only true "fast" food in my town) for a burger/sandwich/meatpie with some chips (fries) and a cool drink, the fried chicken place (not as greasy as it is in America, but still pretty bad), or one of the many braai meat (street meat) stands, for a piece or  of meat and some porridge. Generally, my choice depends on stopping at a couple braai stands and seeing what they have that day. Once in a blue moon, I'll go to the !Gowati lodge in my town for a salad or fresh burger, but that takes a while and is a bit pricy, so I do that only once every month or two. Generally, I'll have a cup of tea or coffee with it.

Dinner: Beans and rice. Or some variation. Vary the spices. Usually with some vegetables, maybe meat worked in. Occasionally replace the rice with lentil, porridge, or pasta. Once in a while, I'll braai, in which case I do fresh meat. Once a month, I'll treat myself to a bag of chicken. I'll usually have an egg or two, maybe some toast, with my beans and rice (I like to make a lot, so I can eat it over a few days, just reheating it on my stove). I'll often do something with pumpkin, generally mashing it or making soup, which I can cool before I eat on a hot day. I know a lot of PCVs who eat better dinners, and think I'm crazy for my nightly beans and rice (especially because I'm a good and creative cook), but it's hot, so I can let that simmer while I work, rather than standing over a hot stove. I've made pizza a couple times. I'll sometimes make tortillas for my beans and rice, eat that with some homemade guacamole when avocados are cheaper.

Other: I put hot sauce on pretty much everything. Namibians tend to like their food a lot blander than I do, so I'm lucky that Tabasco is easy to get (though pricy in my town, so I stock up when I go to Otjiwarrango or Windhoek). I'll also use "tomato sauce" (ketchup) or chutney on a lot of things (I especially love the chili chutney by Mrs. Balls, and no, not just for the sophomoric humor of the name). Namibians often use soup packets to spice their foods, and I've gotten in the habit, generally using oxtail soup, tomato soup, or onion soup. Most of the time, if I want to snack, I'll either make some popcorn on my stove or eat some fruit. If I'm really hungry, but not in the mood to cook, I'll do a peanut butter sandwich. I'll occasionally buy potato chips or "biscuits" (in the British sense) called "rusks." I'll make icies with Oros (concentrated juice). Most Namibians do this in plastic sandwich bags, I generally use emptied soda/water/juice/milk bottles. When it's super hot out, I'll go to the gas station or supermarket for an ice cream or popsicle. They really help. Between icies, popscicles, and my fan, I barely miss air conditioning, even on the hottest days. I used to buy a large bottle of soda or juice every week or so to have it with dinner, but I've started making iced tea, since it's a bit more refreshing after work. I drink a lot of coffee. It's powdered, so I need about two to get the effect of one cup back home. Sometimes I'll buy chocolate, but not often, not being much of a dessert person. I keep canned goods and a lot of bread and peanut butter around for when I have no electricity. I drink a couple beers a week, generally going out for a drink after work with my friends or for while I'm watching soccer. Oh, and I would say I drink close to 6 liters of water a day (easily measured, since the bottles I use are generally either 1/2, 1, or 2 liters).

  So, that's my usual diet. If varies at time, but that's the average. And now, it's time to go eat my lunch.

Giving Thanks

Note: So, I know I promised my next article would be about what I eat. I promise, that article is coming, hopefully this weekend. However, I had to delay it, because I haven't been feeling all that well, and thinking about food just wasn't a good idea. Hopefully this weekend/early next week I will have that post, as well as something about the Thanksgiving dinner we had this past weekend (not sure if it will be included in the same post or it's own). For now, however, I think it would be appropriate to take some time, in the spirit of Thanksgiving and Hanukkah, to take a few minutes to write about the things I'm thankful for this year.

  Okay, so, today's Thanksgiving back in the States. It's also Hanukkah (I'll touch on that later and when I write about our Thanksgiving here). One common Thanksgiving tradition is for people to go around and say what they are thankful for, and while I am not sitting around a table with family or friends tonight (though I did a few nights ago), I think it would be appropriate to talk about a few of the things I'm thankful for. After all, while my service has certainly been full of challenges and struggles and problems, I do have quite a bit for which to say "thanks".

  The first thing I'm thankful for is being here. No, not in the cliche "I'm thankful for living to see another year." I mean, I am, that's just not what I mean to say right now. Those who know me well know how long I've wanted to do the Peace Corps. It's a completely different experience, the chance of a lifetime, to help people and to experience a new culture and different way of life. Beyond that, I'm happy of the country where I am serving. Namibia has its flaws. The weather and environment presents me with almost daily challenges. But, overall, it's safe. Outside the major cities, violent crime is very rare. Sure, there are risks. Being anywhere within 10 feet of a road is putting yourself in harm's way. But the people are friendly and welcoming. And I'm thankful for being in Khorixas, which, for all its flaws, is beautiful and has become a real home. And I'm thankful for being placed at the Ministry of Youth, National Service, Sport, and Culture. While I have a co-worker towards whom I don't have a single positive opinion, the rest of the staff is amazing, my boss has done so much for me (even taking me fishing and having day-long conversations on the topic of social justice). And I was able to jump right in, rather than spending my first few months traveling and sitting around. I had stuff to do from the very first day.

  I'm also grateful for the many friends in my life, both here and back home (and even around the world). As happy as I am to be here, the transition hasn't been the easiest, leaving my friends, family, home, and culture behind, and coming to a new place. Thank you to Gary Rosenthal for the mezuzah, which has left me with a little comfort of my Jewish culture (though it's lead to  few uncomfortable exchanges as well when Namibians come to my place). It also wasn't the easiest start, arriving with my clothes missing and dealing with a number of deaths early on. My friends helped me get through all the early struggles and it really helped me get to this point without once even considering quitting.

  Thank you to the many on the Peace Corps staff in country who have helped me so much. My training staff who helped me adjust, the HQ staff who helped me with my bag, a banking issue, and a few other little issues along the way.

  While they could be said to have already been covered, I would especially like to thank those who welcomed me to Namibia and to Khorixas. My host family in Okahandja, who really were a family to me. My host family here, who opened their house and had a plate of intestines waiting for me so they could help me integrate right into Damara culture upon my arrival in Khorixas. My co-workers, who have been some of my closest friends here. My boss, who showed me around and introduced me to many people. To Steve Iverson and Grace Paulson, who showed me Khorixas. To Elfy, the owner of Sunrise Hotel, who made me feel very welcomed at his bar. You all helped me make Khorixas my home from day 1, and have helped me become (as Elfy said) "a true citizen of Khorixas."

  I want to give a special thanks to Chakka, my co-worker who passed away this past weekend. He was so welcoming and always good for a conversation, a story, or company. His contributions to the youths of Khorixas will be a lasting reminder of his legacy. Chakka, you will certainly be missed, by me, by all of us at the youth hall, and all of the town of Khorixas.

  To Facebook and Gmail for allowing me to stay connected with people back home. For my love and knowledge of the game of soccer, which has helped my integration and gave me something to talk about with my Namibian friends and colleagues. To Skype, which I will soon be using to call my parents (right after I post this). For my ability to cook (a skill that apparently not everyone acquires by their mid-20s, which I don't understand). As superficial/materialistic as it may sound, for my fan and camera, which has, respectively, allowed me to not die of heat this summer (yet, anyway) and allowed me to document my adventures. For this being a German colony. They may have been brutal colonizers and instituted apartheid, but they also brought beer with them, which is absolutely amazing on a hot day. For books, which have kept me sane. For sudokus and other puzzles, which help keep my mind sharp. For my knowledge of computers, which has proven useful at work. For music, which has given me an outlet. And for cold, cold water.

  I'm sure there are things I'm leaving off, but I think that's a good list for now.

Note: For those noting the time at which I posted this, the electricity in my town went off for about 8 hours, right while I was Skpe-ing my parents. Just one of the charms of living in Africa (especially when your only means of cooking without risking burning down your work is an electric stove and electric kettle).

Something I Never Thought I Would Experience

I should preface this post by acknowledging that it did not come from thin air. I did not simply wake up one day and decide to write about it. Rather, it is the product of conversations with friends back home, friends here, a recent incident at bar, and some thoughts that have been floating around my head for some time now. I will also say that many of my observations are shallow. It is fitting, for the topic is, quite literally, only skin deep.

  As one can imagine, there are a lot of things about living in Namiba that are different from the US. I've written about them before. More than once. And I will again, I'm sure, as time goes on. When Peace Corps told me I was going to Africa, I expected some of these difference. Lower quality internet (when I have access), different food, different living conditions, doing laundry by hand, religious differences, a totally new culture, etc. Then there were things I didn't think about, but quickly came to understand, and learned to live with, like water/electricity being shut off at random, a different work ethic, different education systems that teach different types of thinking, attitudes towards gender equality, powdered coffee (okay, "learning to live with" might be an exaggeration on this one, more like "sucking up and tolerating, for lack of alternative"), and modes of getting around being prime examples.

  However, there was one thing I didn't think of: I'm white, and, for the first time in my life, a physical minority. I don't think I need to explain the privilege status that comes with being a white male in the US. Eve in Ray Nagin's "Chocolate City" of New Orleans, I was mostly living in the "Tulane Bubble," which was predominantly white (about 81% of my freshman class was Caucasian). However, I will later discuss the privileges of being white, male, and American in my community. However, let's start with some information. Most sources I've seen have the population of Khorixas as somewhere between 6,000 and 7,000.  The vast majority of those are Damaras.  There are a few Asians (one of the "controversial" issues here is the number of Asians who come here, open shops, and sell cheap goods at lower cost than the products at Namibian stores, admittedly at a much shoddier quality, as well, which has led to a good deal of racism, but I'll save that for a later date, if at all).  I think I might actually need my toes to count the number of whites I've seen living here. Maybe.  White people are a massive minority here.  And as such, I stick out.

  I was recently talking to a friend, and we were commenting on how we were recently at a bar together, and, annoyingly, couldn't get even a few minutes of uninterrupted conversation.  Every few minutes, someone would but in, and no matter how many times we hinted that we had no interest in what they had to say or being in their presence (if you count saying "excuse me, but we're trying to have a conversation, so go away" as a hint).  The kicker, this friend was a co-worker.  He was black.  He was from Khorixas.  But people wanted to talk to me (generally in the hope of getting my phone number, for reasons I will get into shortly).  It's even worse when I'm out with other white people. And if they're white females, well, Jimmy Buffett comes to mind.  When he wrote his lyrics "Can't you feel 'em circlin' honey?/Can't you feel 'em schooling around?" I don't think he realized just how well they described being white in a town like mine.  My skin makes me exotic. So does my accent. And the history of the country makes it safe to assume I'm wealthy.

  Of course, I'm not. My Peace Corps allowance allows me to live comfortably, though I don't make nearly as much as my co-workers do (granted, unlike them, I don't have any children with multiple women to pay child support on, but that's their choice).  There's a perception here that everyone in America is wealthy. That, of course, if far from true. As a matter of fact, as my friend Amy is often quick to point out, while Namibia may have a higher percentage of people living in poverty, not only does the US have more people living in poverty (~4.6 million, as of 2012) than Namibia has living in poverty (roughly 55-65%, depending on the source), but the US has more poor people than Namibia has people at all (~2.1 million, as of 2011).  Now, granted, I'm hardly poor, but I'm far from being wealthy.  However, this perception of American=rich plays a big role in how people interact with me. Whenever I walk around, I have children coming up to saying "owe me N$1)" and when men at shebeens tell me I "must" give them money, and I reply that I have none, they always respond with "all white people/Americans have money/are rich, so just go to the ATM." Oh, if only they saw my bank account. It's gotten so bad that I really have to walk around with my headphones on, just to drown it out, to keep myself sane.

  Of course, being white may have annoying parts (and I can only imagine how much worse it would be for a woman), but it also has its perks. While some people here who don't know me sometimes assume I'm an Afrikaaner, the majority of people have learned to recognize me (with my beard, bushy hair, and shorts that aren't disgustingly too short). Because people know I'm not a Kaaner, they do tend to invite me to more things. People will invite me to weddings or other cultural events. They will have me over for dinner. When there is a big soccer match on, they will invite me over (especially when Chelsea is playing, or the USA, since they know I'm a big CFC fan). I will also be asked to help speak on panels or attend town council meetings to get my perspective on different issues. Because I'm easily recognizable, people will offer me rides around town more often than other white people I see, or they'll see me passing a bar and ask me to come in and join them. Being white most certainly opens doors for me, which I work hard not to abuse, but to use effectively.

  At this point, I would like to digress and point out that I emphasize that last point because of a story our assistant country director told us during training. When he was a PCV, he took advantage of his status. Because he was white and American, he could regularly see whoever the head politician was called in his town. Since Peace Corps gives us local holidays off, and he wanted his birthday off, he used this connection to get his birthday declared a local holiday. I share this story not to embarrass him (though I find it amusing, and hope you do too), but to point out how easy it is to take privilege for granted, and maybe even take advantage of it in ways that aren't exactly productive. It's a cautionary tale that reminds me to remember how I represent and conduct myself in my community.

  I mentioned before that people often ask for my number. This comes down to the wealthy perception thing. For females, when they give out their number, it's a fairly safe assumption that they will be on the receiving end of SMS and calls regarding pitiful, corny, occasionally disgusting, and often just pathetic "come-ons." As one can imagine, that is not something I have to worry about. Instead, they'll call me repeatedly asking for money, or SMS me, begging for phone credits. As a result, I've come to be very selective in who gets my number, and unhesitating about blocking a number after  getting these types of calls or messages (I don't wait for 3 strikes, I warn people when I give them my number that if they do it once, I'll block them and never give them my number again). I also have a second SIM card, which I only give to people related to my work.

  There is also another issue at play with my skin color. Apartheid did play a major role in forming modern race relations in Namibia. And even today, there are those who see my white skin and assume I'm a Kaaner. While there are very few Afikaaners in my town (most of whom work at the local lodge), a number of them pass through on their way to the coast or to Etosha. And I can't help but notice the looks I'll get (often judgmental) when they see me walking around with my black friends. Or the looks of utter shock when I'll enter the gas station and order a burger or something, all in Damara, clicks and all, including the general niceties of polite conversation. Damaras tend to get a kick out of it (they find it funny) and often show gratitude at my efforts to learn their language (as pathetic as the results have been thus far).

  It's also led to certain rumors. According to Grace, some people in my town think she and I are dating. One person, mentioning having seen me in town that weekend, even referred to me as the "guy who looks like [her] husband." Any time a new white person comes to town, people remarks that I should marry that person (but, as a rich American, I must also adopt one the children they can't afford to care for). Of course, given how many people I've told I'm single, have no wife or children back home (not the same thing as being single in the country, I've come to realize), etc., and how well I stand out, my skin and "exoticness" of being American has also had some advantages I won't get into (but which I'm sure your minds are going to, or at least predicting, right now). After all, there are "fins to the left/fins to the right/and [I'm] the only [white]
bait in town". (Sorry for the Jimmy Buffett quotes, but it really does summarize how I feel, in regards to being white)

  I'm sorry if I sound like I'm complaining. I don't mean to be. However, all my life I've been a member of the majority, and I now realize how much I've taken it for granted. Now, for the first time in my life, I'm not only a minority, but a major one (like, less than 1% of my community). It is something that has its advantages, and yes, disadvantages. But, most importantly, like everything else that's different about Namibia, it's something I must adjust to. It's something I must cope with. It's something I can use to my advantage, but must also be cautious not to abuse. Race is something we're born with. And it's something everyone sees (nobody's color blind, though I'd like to think I make the best effort not to let it impact my interactions with people, but recognize it does sometimes, maybe even more than I'd like to admit, me being human and flawed). Being Jewish is something I can hide (well, more like not call attention to, because it leads to very awkward lines of questions I don't like dealing with). It may be something new, but it's also reality. I'm white. Most of my town is black. I stick out. I'm American. I stick out more. I'm male. I don't get harassed quite to the level of my female counterparts. It's weird, but I'm getting used to it.

Check back soon. Around (or possibly on) Thanksgiving, I plan to have a post about my diet as a PCV. But for now, I hope all of you are well.

Moving, Music, Gardening, and Everything Else I've Been Up To (and puppies)

So, before I begin, congrats Grace on the birth of your grandpups.

  I was recently asked what I miss about America. It was someone from college, asking what they could send me. The truth is, very little could fit in a package, and it's really an unspecific thing. Yeah, I miss certain restaurants and Mexican food (and Thai food, and spicy food, and 2am pizza, etc.), but that wouldn't travel well. What I really miss are the people and events. My friends. Tulane football finally getting good. Music festivals. That last one is the main focus of this post. Lately, this blog has been more focused on general Namibia/HIV topics. So, I guess I should probably go back to the personal “what the heck has Jay been doing lately?” stuff.

  Well, for one thing, I finally moved into my own place. No more host family (not that I had any issues with them, but I'm an adult, I needed my space and freedom, they needed the room for their large and growing family, and the kids were wearing me out), no more crashing with whoever would take me in (thank you to a certain someone who gave me a bed, roof, and crazy dog for about a month), no more wondering how long it takes to paint a wall. It's small. The windows are broken (despite being newly renovated), the shower is disgusting, the furniture is basic, and I had to get very creative about finding ways to hang my laundry and mosquito netting (hint: it involves making my room hard to walk around at night). I lose water and/or electricity for days on end. But, I got a working fridge and the nicest bed I've slept on (regularly) since high school (admittedly, I spent 2 years on a futon instead of a bed). It's really close to my work (as in, it's attached to my youth center). It's close enough to town. I got some decorations up for my teams from home. Oh, and did I mention I have an amazing fridge.

  Okay, so now for what I've been doing. At site, I've been very busy. I'm teaching 4 computer classes a day, where we're almost finished with Word (sadly, due to poor learner attendance, I don't think I'll be able to actually finish the course). I've also been teaching classes on gender relations, mainly in the context of HIV and GBV. They've certainly led to some eye-opening moments. We had an hour long conversation about what situations it's okay for a woman to turn down sex, which clearly reflected the male-dominant society of Namibia. It also showed that while condoms are readily available and schools teach about them from a very young age, the attitudes towards them are still a pretty major block in getting people to use them, a major force behind the HIV crisis in the country. As the album above included photos from, I also attended a wedding. And I learned the keys to surviving a Damara wedding: a liver of steel and a love of meat. In other words, I was perfect for it.

Well, like I said before, one of the things I've missed most since I left the US has been live music. So, when I found out there was a jazz festival in Windhoek on October 26, I jumped. Then, when I found out it was the same day as the Oktoberfest celebration there, I was even more excited. In the end, Oktoberfest didn't happen, but the Jazz Festival was incredible. I arrived Friday and checked in at the Cardboard Box backpackers lodge (a nice hostel in Windhoek) where I met some health PCVs serving in Botswana and had some interesting conversations. The next day, I did some walking around Windhoek (I'd forgotten my towel...I know, I'm a bad galactic hitchhiker) before grabbing a quick bite at Nando's (the Brit in Emily is obsessed with that place) and heading to Hage Geingob stadium for one of the best nights of my time here. We arrived and set up shop (enjoy the photos) front and center, grabbed some drinks, and got down to the business of enjoying the music. While I could share stories from the night, out of respect for my friends, since I haven't asked their permission, feel free to ask for them in a less public place. I will say that the highlights were Big Ben, Zahara (one of Africa's top musicians), and the legend Hugh Masekela (who was every bit as good as advertised). It might've been a jazz festival, but the music included funk, reggae, and even a litte pop. Given we were in a cab at around 1am looking for beer after the show (the festival ran out), I'm thinking it was best that I'd skipped Oktoberfest (a choice that Alicia confirmed was the correct one, though I've heard they had a fun time). I guess now is when I should apologize to Mayank for offering to buy his Oktoberfest ticket and then deciding I didn't have the energy (or money to do both...the result of an incident involving an ATM and living in a very small town). The next day, after walking around and taking care of some errands with Amy and Jaime (who I name only so I can quote another member of our group, Johanna, who realized “Jay...Amy...Jaime”), we met up at a place called Spurs for lunch. It was a TexMex place, a bit pricey, but we wanted the nachos (which were awesome). See, Amy is obsessed with cheese, so every time she and I spend time together, my cheese intake goes up big time (we even bought a bunch of cheese and crackers to have for dinner that night, in lieu of a real meal). Overall, just an amazing weekend.

High Masekela, doing his thing

  However, we weren't done yet. Oh, no. See, another reason why this festival was so perfect was that on Monday, we needed to get to Omaruru for our Re-Connect (part 2) and a gardening workshop meant to help us teach our communities to take crappy soil and make it into productive vegetable gardens that use less water and make sustainable food security. Honestly, I immediately fell in love with Omaruru. Just such a beautiful town. Quaint and artsy, with a nice coffee shop, it had hosted Group 35's (the health group before mine) PST. Our first stop was the Kristal Kellerie winery. After a tour and wine tasting, we returned to the lodge that would be our home for the next few days to chill in the pool and “re-connect” with the rest of our group (admittedly, with a few exceptions, I'd already re-connected with my real friends that weekend in Windhoek). On Tuesday morning, the training began. We learned to dig proper berms, trenches, and holes to help stop, slow down, sink, and eventually spread water to maximize the “water we get when it rains (as Peter Jensen, who ran the training put it, we want water to “walk off, not run off”). Peter also took us around to show us useful plants and other common things that could be used to improve the garden (all available for free). Over the next fewdays, we learned the principles of double digging to allow for deeper roots, how to enrich the soil, both bottom and top, proper crop rotation, how to plant on the berms to make use of the space, and maybe even create a natural fence to keep out animals (at least chickens without self-respect), composting, and maximizing productivity of the garden. We also learned how to use the garden as a larger classroom to teach more, like nutrition, water conservation, even health topics. It was a really interesting training, and one which will help quite a bit, even if I'm not sure I'll be doing any workshops as my own projects (I can still grow my own veggies).

Learning to shade seedlings to minimize water use (the bottle is not trash, but a form of recycling to make a cheap drip irrigation system)

Proper crop rotation

Nay, clearly working hard

Beautiful Omaruru

Nice coffee shop

See, I do work, not just take pics (unlike someone else in our group)

Finished product (for now)

How a nice garden should look

Some aloe vera and cacti

Double digging

  So, I'm back now. Home in Khorixas. Yes, home. About half a year at site, and I really feel a comfort level of home in this town. It helps finally having my own place, but it's more than that. Having been gone for a while, I realized I'd really missed being in Khorixas. I'm not one of those PCVs who goes away every weekend. I really love it here, and have, to this point, made efforts to minimize time away. I'd planned to meet my sitemate for a drink, but, while I was waiting, took some time to walk around. I'd been out of town for about a week and a half. I went to the Engen station for a meatpie, since I hadn't had time to pick up groceries. I said “hi” to the guard there, exchanged my terrible Damara with the counter lady, and took my snack to go. I continued to walk around. To the “Passport Shop” (a shabine with a pool table and awesome raisins), passed the Multisave, !Gowati, several other little shabines, and finally arrived at Sunrise Hotel, my favorite bar in town, where Elfy, the owner, greeted me on his way out. The familiar smells of street meat, the obnoxious voice of the co-worker I dislike, the blasting shabine jams, the stone benches in front of Sunrise. I just felt happy to be back. For the past few years, I've been torn between homes, never quite being a New Orleanian, but no longer fully being a Washingtonian. Now, while I feel ties to the US, even putting up my NoLa flag, Tulane banner, Nats rally towel, Skins flag, Caps mask, etc., being called a “Citizen of Khorixas” by Elfy really struck it home. And I'm looking for to the next year and a half here.

  Before I finish off this post, I want to share a recent story from that night I got back from my training, and I was out with Grace and another PCV who had a friend with her. Damaras tend to have little-no respect for people having conversations, and we were engaged in one, when someone decided to come over and butt in. At first, we were annoyed and tried to shake him off, but quickly gave up. So, we allowed him into our conversation. It was about top 5 places we want to visit and why, and we asked him to list his, with Grace quickly giving the rule that it couldn't be the US. Well, that didn't help, since the US (and, more specifically, New York, a city that everyone overseas wants to see, for reasons I can't comprehend). But the conversation quickly shifted to how we should feel very safe in Namibia. For him, the only Americans he'd met were Peace Corps volunteers. As a result, he has a very positive opinion of Americans as being people who try and help other countries (as you know, I have a very cynical view on this one, but I kept it to myself). It really drove home the point that Peace Corps has made about us representing the country as ambassadors to the community where we serve. And he ended by saying we should feel safe because he wouldn't let anything happen to us, because he wants us to go back to the US and tell our friends and family back home how nice and friendly Namibians are, rather than how awful they are, a point that really struck me after some recent incidents involving friends of mine in other parts of the country. It also hit home how unwelcoming Americans can be towards our visitors (I know I've been guilty of this during peak tourist seasons back in DC). Certainly a little anecdote that shows how much of an impact Americans overseas can have on those they meet and a little lesson on how we should see foreigners we encounter in our own country.

  So, I guess I'll end it there. My boss has law exams to study for and needs my help with some of the English, and I have lesson plans to prepare for this week. So, !Gâi tsesa u hâ re. Khawa mûgus.

A Couple Odds and Ends

  So, a while back I mentioned that some of the towns and regions of Namibia were having their names changed.  Well, I came across this little clip discussing it, which I found interesting.  And yes, part of the issue was the colonial past (and it's not surprising that al Jazeera would focus on that element).  It was also a tourism thing, highlighting local populations to encourage tourists to visit these places.  Of course, there are many who found the changes silly.  Several people I work with commented that after a lifetime of calling it "Luderitz," calling it "ǃNamiǂNûs" is just going to feel very weird.  Same thing with calling the "Caprivi" region the Zambezi Region.  I have gone into this discussion already, so I'll just end by pointing out that Namibia seems to be dealing with the same kind of issues many states in the US (especially in the South) have to deal with post Civil War: finding the balance between remembering history (which cannot simply be swept under the rug, since it is part of what this country is) and not wanting to honor those guilty of being brutal to the native population.

  Computer classes have started up again, and a month in, my learners are still having trouble saving, can't comprehend the difference between the highlighter and changing the font color in Word, or the fact that missing a class does not mean I "must" give them extra time to complete an assignment.  It's going slower than last time, and while I understand that these people had never used a computer before the class, the number of times I've had to go over "left and right" and "top and bottom" with a group of adults does not makes me super optimistic.  Then again, there were times I felt this way about my previous class, and most of them would have likely passed the course, had any of them submitted their final exams to be scored.  So, I guess we'll see.

  I took part in a recent program regarding HIV and healthy sex practices.  While it resulted in very interesting discussions which highlighted the difference between Namibian and Western cultures (especially in regard to gender equality), there were also some frustrating moments, trying to explain to the women that there is no situation (unless their lives are under threat, maybe) that they should feel obligated to have sex.  Interestingly, it was actually the men who tended more towards feeling it's okay for a woman to say "no".  Grace and I are talking about a larger program on this discussion, but it was really interesting to get the different perspective on sexual norms, even if I maybe feel they are not particularly healthy (in regards to HIV and youth fertility).

PEPFAR: Bush's Overlooked Legacy

Okay, a short disclaimer: This article does contain content of a political nature.  It expresses an opinion of the person writing it, and in no way reflects on the attitudes of Peace Corps, the US Government, or the country of Namibia.  My opinions are my own, the conclusions are my own, unless otherwise cited.  No, this is not a rant.  This is not meant to be partisan.  I'm a) covering my tail and b) making sure nobody else gets in trouble over technicalities.  While politics play a role, they are not the focus, I am merely acknowledging a personal bias here.

  A president's legacy is an interesting thing.  I saw an article recently that suggested a possible peace with Iran could be President Obama's lasting legacy.  The more obvious legacies will be that he is our first non-white president and Obamacare.  His impacts on the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan will certainly be part of any legacy, I believe, as will his efforts to further equal rights for homosexuals.  Security issues and the NSA spying, Benghazi, and other things yet to be seen may also be part.  Depending on party affiliation, he's either a good president or the most evil, unpatriotic, socialist, Kenyan to ever grace the office.  For the most part, a president's legacy is a subjective thing, depending on how it impacted you directly and who you voted for.

  A number of people remember the Bush presidency as an awful time, marked with the collapse of the economy, mishandling of Katrina, the War on Terror, etc.  Others remember his term as the "good ol' days."  Again, this is all subjective.  However, one legacy he leaves behind is PEPFAR, and as far as I'm concerned, it's one of the most objectively good things he did in office.  It's also something a lot of people don't know much about.

  So, a few question that I should probably address.  First of all, most of you might be wondering what is PEPFAR (I mean really, not just the basics) and what has it done.  Then, you might ask what PEPFAR as accomplished? I'll give a quick answer now: quite a bit.  Ok, so if it's been successful, why haven't we heard about it?  And, spoiler alert, the answer will be my opinion, since a real, objective answer would be impossible to give.  And finally, why am I writing about this, rather than myself or Namibia?  So, let us begin.

  It's a lot easier to criticize a house for being ugly than it is to fix it up.  It's a lot easier to talk about how awful it is that people are dying of HIV/AIDS.  George W. Bush didn't just talk about how awful it was.  After talking with people who knew what they were talking about, his administration established PEPFAR.

  What is PEPFAR?  In 2003, President Bush launched the President's Emergency Plan for AIDS Relief, largely as a response to major issue of AIDS around the world.  It pledged roughly $15 billion to fight HIV/AIDS from 2003-2008.  Renewed under and expanded by Obama, it as donated billions of dollars to fighting HIV/AIDS, TB, and malaria, and has been credited with saving over 1.1 million African lives in 10 years.  And yes, Namibia is one of the countries that as benefited greatly from it, as I will talk about later.  Originally, there 15 focus countries, mostly in Africa, though the program as moved away from this.

(Map of PEPFAR World Activities)
https://hiu.state.gov/Products/Worldwide_PepfarPlans_2012July19_HIU_U568.pdf

  USAID, HHS, the CDC, OGAC (Office of the Global AIDS Coordinator, housed in the Department of State), Peace Corps, and several other departments and agencies have been part of the implementation process.  And yes, as you probably guessed, this list answers, at least in part, the "why am I writing about this" thing.  It focuses on prevention, treatment, and care for those living with HIV, through education, contraception, ART (antiretroviral therapy), counseling, etc.  I could throw around terms like "OVCs," or "PLVHA," or "Out of School Youths" as target groups, or the ABC method of prevention, or PMTCT.  Or, I can assume you are all intelligent/capable of using Google.  I'm going to go with the latter, since it's less work for me.

  So, in short, that's what it is (see links later for more info).

  Okay, well, what have been the results?  Well, here are some numbers from PEPFAR's website:

• 5.1 million people received ARTs because of PEPFAR
• 11 million pregnant women received HIV testing and counseling treatment, and is believed to ave prevented 230,000 cases of mother-infant transmissions in 2012
• 15 million people receiving care in 2012
• 5 million OVCs receiving care and support in 2012
• 46.5 million people were tested for HIV in 2012
• As mentioned, an estimated 1.1 MILLION PEOPLE IN AFRICA ALONE DIDN'T DIE FROM HIV/AIDS
• Over 7 million new infections prevented

http://www.pepfar.gov/funding/results/index.htm
http://www.mercurynews.com/breakingnews/ci_12087859
http://www.eurekalert.org/pub_releases/2009-04/sumc-ssf040209.php

  Yeah, it's been good. No, it hasn't been cheap, but it as saved lives.

  Okay, Jay, we get it.  You really like PEPFAR, and it's been fairly successful. So, why is it not more well known?  Well, reader, there are a few reason.  And no, none of them will completely answer the question, since there is no single answer.  There are, instead, several factors which I feel play a role.  I will expand on them shortly.  One of the most commonly cited ones is politics.  One I put more stock in is the main problem with foreign aid: it helps people "over there" rather than "here," so we don't directly see the impact.  Another factor is context.  Let's face it, the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan pretty much consumed all of our foreign policy attention during the Bush years.  Everything else was kind of just drowned out.  On top of that, the economy collapsed, and we were more worried about people here who were suffering.  Beyond that, the handling of Katrina tends to dominate any discussion about how Bush handled disasters.  And, finally, most of the impact is long-term, so it didn't really show up while he was still in office (in fact, we have yet to see the full impact).  There are also some criticisms of the program itself, some valid, some (in my opinion) just people being selfish and shortsighted.

  Here is one take on the issue: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/anthony-amore/googling-pepfar_b_3934705.html.  Now, Amore's take starts off good, talking about how more people know about Miley Cyrus twerking than about a program that's spent billions to save lives.  However, he pretty much kills any validity in his article when he talks about "Hollywood elite" and blames "the Left," as if they make up one group.  This brings us to the first issue.  Politics absolutely play a massive role.  After all, we're talking about a 21st century US President, so any legacy is going to be based on political views, and the Democrats certainly had a lot to gain from not publicizing it, since the fewer people who know about it, the fewer people who would have something nice to say about Bush.  Of course, this simplistic analysis ignores the fact that the program as been continued and expanded, to a degree (more on that later), by the Obama administration.

   The fact is, foreign aid polls bad.  The people it helps aren't the ones paying taxes or voting in the elections.  Many people don't like the idea of our money going to help people "over there" when we have so many problems in our own country.  There is also the question of whether the money's been worth it, since 10 years later, HIV still exists.  Shouldn't people's own governments be taking over by now? Well, actually, they are.  PEPFAR funding has been reduced.  http://www.huffingtonpost.com/chris-collins/pepfar-cuts-hiv-aids_b_3101250.html.  No, this is not about the deficit.  PEPFAR (and all money going towards foreign aid health initiatives) make up less than 1% of spending.  As the article points out, the focus is less on a billateral solution, where the US gives them money and tells them how to fix the AIDS problem.  It's turning more towards a structure whereby money is used to get the spread of HIV/AIDS under control and help countries work to reduce the rates, and then have them take over, with the help of international organizations, NGOs, and the UN.  Rather trying to help these countries, the focus is shifting more towards helping them help themselves, or (to use the buzzword of the development community) "capacity building."  PEPFAR has been criticized for hurting local health structures, with health workers in PEPFAR-funded programs making several times what similar workers in non-PEPFAR-funded health institutions. Foreign aid is just unpopular, though.  Sure, there are disagreements about it from a "what's the best way to do it" standpoint, but many people just think we should cut it.  In fact, it's one of the most common suggestions for things we should cut as par of the budget crisis (http://www.people-press.org/2013/02/22/as-sequester-deadline-looms-little-support-for-cutting-most-programs).   Of course, anyone who suggests this doesn't know what they're talking about, since all foreign aid comes to not only less of the GDP than the average American thinks, but even less than the amount they would be fine with spending on it (http://www.cgdev.org/blog/lies-damn-lies-and-surveys-about-foreign-aid, http://www.worldpublicopinion.org/pipa/articles/brunitedstatescanadara/670.php).   Not only that, but foreign aid leads to people being more supportive of the US, which lowers the risks of them attacking us.

  Beyond that is the context.  There were far bigger issues facing Americans.  If you look at any article regarding PEPFAR and scan the comments sections (and I would recommend not wasting any time doing that), you will see things along the line of "great, so he helped people over there, but look at how he messed up with Katrina and saddled our country with 2 massive wars."  Bush's "failures" tend to drown out any positives, which is a shame.  Even articles praising him make reference to it being in contrast to his general legacy (http://www.foreignpolicy.com/articles/2013/02/14/what_george_w_bush_did_right?page=0,0).  But, if you ask the people being helped, however, this isn't in contrast to his legacy; in many parts of Africa and in countries with high HIV, this IS his legacy (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7831460.stm).  Sure, many Africans were excited about America having a president who looks like them, and CNN/al Jazeera/BBC have made them aware of his less positive moments.  But, in the end, he's done a lot of good (http://www.huffingtonpost.com/ambassador-eric-goosby-md/through-pepfar-support-on_b_3461660.html, http://www.huffingtonpost.com/ambassador-eric-goosby-md/pepfar-tenth-anniversary_b_3325863.html).  By the way, sorry for all the links, but I feel it adds more if I make it clear that these aren't just my own opinions/anecdotes.  I realize some are repetitive, but it was easier than trying to transfer this from Word with them as links, rather than as footnotes (sorry, MLA fans).

  And, of course, there are valid criticisms of the program itself.  I already mentioned one, that being the impact it has on local health systems.  It's also been criticized for creating a dependency in countries receiving the funds, though, as I mentioned, that is part of why the focus has shifted away from bilateral strategies.  There are also those who say by reducing the transmission rates of HIV, we essentially make "high risk behaviors" safer (http://www.aids.org/topics/harm-reduction-and-hiv/).  While that's true, when you make them safer, they become less high risk, so the statement is somewhat contradictory, in my opinion.  Of course, reducing the likelihood of contracting HIV doesn't change the fact that when you have sex without a condom, you run the risk of other STIs or pregnancy, which should (and is) emphasized with the education aspects of PEPFAR.    PEPFAR has also been criticized for working so heavily with FBOs, who, sometimes, make adherence to their faith a condition for being helped (something I personally think is wrong, but since they're willing to help where others won't, unless they're willing to pick up the slack, I don't think people who criticize PEPFAR for working with FBOs have much of a leg to stand on).  Funding has been criticized (by this, I mean there are people who say we should be spending more).  However, one of the biggest criticisms (and the one I most agree with) has been some of the requirements. A certain percentage (this has varied slightly, but was originally mandated at 1/3) of funds must go towards "abstinence only" education.  While it's true that abstinence is the only 100% effective way to stop the spread of HIV, it's also unrealistic (just look in the US and the numbers between states that teach abstinence only sex ed as opposed to those who teach real sex ed).  And, in fact, this has lead to a reduction in the effectiveness of encouraging condom use.  PEPFAR funds also cannot go toward needle-exchange programs, which is one of the more effective methods of stopping the spread.  Are IV drugs good? No. Should they be encouraged? No. But needle exchanges don't encourage them, they simply recognize that these people are going to do drugs either way, so lets help them do it without spreading HIV (sorry for the rant).  PEPFAR also requires all organizations to sign an anti-prostitution pledge in order to receive funding.  This has resulted in criticism since sex workers are, arguably, one of the groups most at risk for HIV.  There are also issues with drug companies and the cost of the meds.

  So, between partisan politics, context, and criticism of the program itself (and an American public increasingly obsessed with gossip and less interested in stuff that actually impacts the world), the program has slipped many people's minds.  Which is unfortunate.  But, thankfully, the 10th anniversary of PEPFAR has done a little to rectify this.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/opinions/eugene-robinson-george-w-bushs-greatest-legacy--his-battle-against-aids/2012/07/26/gJQAumGKCX_story.html "George W. Bush's greatest legacy" by Eugene Robinson
http://www.washingtonpost.com/opinions/george-w-bush-extend-success-against-aids-to-other-devastating-diseases/2012/07/22/gJQAxs042W_story.html "Extend the success against AIDS to other devastating diseases" by George W. Bush himself, suggesting we use the lessons learned from PEPFAR (arguably the most successful global health initiative) to fight other major diseases around the world.
http://www.washingtonpost.com/opinions/pepfars-glowing-report-card-10-years-later/2013/02/25/1a1c67e4-7ede-11e2-b99e-6baf4ebe42df_story.html "PEPFAR's glowing report card, 10 years later"
http://www.washingtonpost.com/opinions/a-pepfar-for-dc-and-baltimore/2012/07/20/gJQAVbZbyW_story.html "A PEPFAR for DC and Baltimore". Yes, it's been so successful "over there" that people, like Robert C. Gallo, are suggesting using the methods to fight HIV in the US.
And, of course, the many articles I've already included, most of which criticize the lack of articles about PEPFAR.  The truth is, the information is out there, people just tend not to care.  But that's changing, slowly, as we're seeing just how successful PEPFAR has been.

  Ok, Jay, so PEPFAR's helped a lot of people. I get it.  But I came here to read about your own experiences, not another story about fighting AIDS in Africa.  So, please tell me, Mr. Salus, why exactly did I just read all of that?  Well, first of all, as I mentioned before, one of the ways the US government implements PEPFAR programming is through the Peace Corps.  My official title is a US Peace Corps Health Extension Volunteer, as part of the Community Health and HIV/AIDS Program.  Basically, I'm how Peace Corps does the PEPFAR thing.  But it's more than that.  Namibia gained independence in 1991.  Since 1996, HIV has been the leading cause of death in the country, and was a major cause for the life expectancy in the country dropping from 61 years to 49 between 1991 and 2001.  However, between 2006 and 2008, the HIV rate between ages 15-49 dropped from almost 20% to less than 18% of the population.  In 2009, the CDC estimated that roughly 13.1% of the adult population was living with HIV/AIDS (http://www.cdc.gov/globalhealth/countries/namibia/pdf/namibia.pdf).  PEPFAR has also been directly responsible for an increased access to ART treatment, counseling, and HIV prevention education in Namibia, which has helped reduce the death rate caused by HIV.  It's also led to a drastic reduction of mother-to-child transmissions and led to improved care for OVCs and other high risk groups, like out of school youths.  In 2011 (the most recent year in which statistics are available), over 98,000 people received ARTs, over 240,000 received counseling and testing, and almost 2,300 infant infections were averted.  Just in one year.  Meanwhile, the CDC says that in 2011, life expectancy was up to 63 year for women, 62 for men.  Here's the take from Wanda L. Nesbitt, US Ambassador to Namibia: http://reliefweb.int/report/namibia/working-namibia-end-aids.

  Look, I realize I'm no expert when it comes to HIV/AIDS.  There are plenty of people out there who could've written this post, or even a better one.  I'll even admit that one of the reasons I wrote this was that I'm simply afraid I, like many PCVs, will lose the ability to write and speak in real English (as opposed to the Namlish that is slowly taking over).  But I also wanted to talk about a topic I feel strongly about.  Because I am working in the field of HIV/AIDS and PEPFAR does impact my life directly and because ever since I can remember, I'd seen people on TV talking about AIDS in Africa.  I often hear people say how awful it is. While George W. Bush did a lot which I disagreed with, he also established PEPFAR, which has save millions of lives around the world, and I think it's time we all recognized this aspect of his legacy.  10 years later, and we're still seeing progress.  Is there work to do? Sure.  And I plan to be a part of it.  So, I hope you enjoyed this and found it informative.

  When AIDS was first discovered, it was a death sentence and a cause for great fear.  It's now manageable and treatable.  Soon, we might even have a vaccine (http://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/17/science/new-hope-for-hiv-vaccine.html?_r=0).  Now, it's just a matter of helping people know the facts about the virus and how to prevent it.  I'm writing this as the government shutdown is taking place, so I'll throw in my 2 cents on these negotiations: don't cut a penny of foreign aid, and especially from health initiatives like PEPFAR.  It won't be more than a drop in the bucket for the American debt problem, but it will mean lives over here and around the world.  "Investment in AIDS will be repaid a thousand-fold in lives saved and communities held together," Dr. Peter Piot, ED of UNAIDS.  George W. Bush established PEPFAR.  He made the investment.  He began fixing the house.  And he deserves a lot of thanks for doing so.